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About indalo

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/28/1916

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  • Gender
  • Location
    East Herts
  • Vehicle Driven
    i40 1.7CRDi Tourer

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24,459 profile views
  1. Welcome to the forum 'WhiteBear'. There is quite a bit of material in the i40 branch so you may find answers to any queries you may have by checking out the various topics. By and large, the i40 has proved to be a decent car and is an attractive alternative to other large saloons and estate models available for similar money in the UK. There's a few regular correspondents who can provide you with information about the model's performance, economy and reliability long-term and over high mileages so if you have any problems, I'm sure those guys will point you in the right direction. My i40 has gone, replaced by a Kia model, but I have no issues with Hyundai as I think their business model is pretty good and the cars they are producing these days are worthy contenders in each market segment. Not everyone keeps a car long enough to make the 5-year warranty worthwhile but it does reflect a confidence in the product that most competitors are not prepared to match. I sincerely hope your i40 serves you well and provides low-cost motoring for you. Indalo
  2. That's a strange one 'aldredd'. Obviously, you are talking about a different bleeping arrangement from your normal parking sensor alert and I can't say it's something I experienced with my i40. Perhaps one of the other frequent correspondents can shed some light on the matter but all I can think of is that you may have a faulty sensor. Maybe a bit of damp? Indalo
  3. You might wish to check in the settings to see which software the system is running. You can find out from the Navteq site how the latest system is numbered. The attached link is not necessarily what you want but it at least leads to the Navteq site and you can take it from there. The reason I mention it is that a car no longer within the dealer network may not have had the most recent software/firmware update. That being the case, any system glitches such as you describe might well be cured in the course of updating the system. I'm presuming here that Hyundai are still using Navteq for the satnav and hadn't moved to another supplier for 2014 cars. My 2016 Kia uses Tom Tom for example. https://www.navigation.com/is-bin/intershop.static/WFS/Navteq-Site/Navteq/en_GB/documents/Hyundai/Hyundai Instructions English.pdf Indalo
  4. I'd call that a result Garry! I'm not at all surprised that there was a fault with the clutch, rather than friction plate wear which would be most unusual at that mileage. That meant the difference between warranty work and the emptying of your wallet! As for the brakes, I think you're quite right to have them done elsewhere. As 'aabs' and 'Westkent' have indicated, brake pad replacement isn't beyond the competence of a decent non-franchised repairer or indeed anyone reasonably familiar with car maintenance DIY. While the rear pads could be in need of replacement, the actual discs are probably fine. Rear brakes only provide a small proportion of the job of bringing a vehicle to a halt, the fronts doing the lion's share. If it were me, unless the rear discs prove to be either badly worn, (measurable and usually obvious to the naked eye and a fingernail test), or warped, (unusual), which is difficult to see but can be measured on a clock gauge, I'd simply replace the pads. In the course of rear brake examination, the cause of a sticking handbrake should come to light. Given that you have been saved the clutch replacement costs, I'd be inclined to let your favoured non-Hyundai repairer check out the handbrake and pads. Indalo
  5. Welcome to the forum Jamie. With the greatest of respect, I know from experience that the i40 battery is very well placed for easy access. If you are daunted by the idea of attaching charger terminals or jump leads, then I suggest you ask a friend or neighbour, perhaps more familiar than you with such matters, to help you. Indalo
  6. Hi 'Admodz' I'm really sorry to hear of your litany of problems with your i40. My understanding is that those porous engine block problems were fairly rare but you seem to be the exception to the rule. Really, I think you should reveal the name of this Hyundai dealer so that other owners in your part of the country can make an informed decision as to which Hyundai dealer they entrust their car for service and repair. Most owners praise Hyundai for their general customer care and certainly, the company has demonstrated a willingness to sort problems that goes above and beyond that of many other carmakers. All the best for the future, Indalo
  7. Sadly 'aldredd', it is symptomatic of a clutch fault. Slippage though, is not necessarily the result of a worn friction plate but can be caused by oil contamination or any physical obstruction, (even a carpet) which may prevent the pressure plate locking the centre plate to the flywheel securely. Although a clutch can easily last double the mileage of your car and more if carefully driven, at 86,000 miles I'd be inclined to let the dealership diagnose the problem as it is unlikely to get any better. I have no idea how much a replacement clutch might cost but unless there is a clear manufacturing defect, (unlikely after 86,000), it won't be considered warranty work, supposing it is still under 5 years old. Let's hope it's not ridiculously expensive! Regards, Indalo ps I'm not suggesting you are not a careful driver
  8. i40

    There are several conditions that need to be met for the ISG system to work effectively. Generally, heavy winter usage of the various electric bits precludes the system from working consistently, leading to some owners believing their car has a fault which is usually not the case. You can always book the car in at the dealership and ask that they check it out, if you feel there really is something wrong. Indalo
  9. Sounds like either there's a connection which has come adrift or dud bulbs/no bulbs at all. I really don't know how easy or otherwise it is to access the bulbs but that's what I'd be looking at next. If it's difficult, I'd suggest leaving it until it's due its next service and I'd get the dealer to sort it while it's with them. Alternatively, if it's important to you and your next service is some way off, book it in for investigation and let them diagnose the problem. It's not as if there's any expensive parts likely to need replacing. I think they are referred to as puddle lights. Indalo
  10. Garry, 'Westkent' is one of the highest mile-eaters in the forum so his comments are almost certainly relevant as to brake life expectancy. On the basis of what you told us about the dealer, I would be inclined to try either another main dealer or any well-recommended private garage business. Rear discs should easily manage double the mileage your car has covered before needing replacement As for the clutch, it would require some really serious abuse to wear it out at 36,000 miles and I doubt anyone with a car like the i40 would be likely to treat it so badly in the first three years to cause clutch damage. It is more likely to be a faulty component than wear and tear although that may have occurred as collateral damage, as it were. My only suggestion is that you get in touch with Hyundai UK and see what they have to say about what you have been told by the dealer. I know Hyundai did replace a fair few clutches in early cars but when they stopped building cars with 'dodgy' clutches, I couldn't say Best of luck with that. Indalo
  11. I think I must have misunderstood? If the OP had just said the price quoted is for a battery, I'd have understood and suggested buying and fitting one from a major online supplier for a lot less money. I thought there was a fault elsewhere with the ISG and you didn't know what the acronym meant. Indalo
  12. Is there a reason why this shouldn't be a warranty repair? Indalo
  13. Come on 'WK', get with the programme! How about, 'Intelligent Stop-Go'? Indalo
  14. Welcome to the forum Frankie. The mind boggles as to why anyone would find a need to leave the tailgate open for such time that it might be detrimental to the battery's state of charge but that's really none of my business. Never having required to do that, I'll hazard a guess and suggest that the simplest solution may be to remove the bulb(s). I shouldn't think that would be too difficult to accomplish. Obviously though, there must be a switch somewhere in the vicinity which is actuated by the opening and closing of the tailgate but even if you identify such a switch, you would then need to use some ingenuity to keep it in the 'light off' position for the duration. Removing the lens cover/diffuser and extracting the bulb(s) sounds easier to me. Indalo
  15. Got to be worth a punt 'Westkent'! If it doesn't do the trick, you'd better have a plan B ready though I wish you luck with it. Indalo