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  1. 2 points
    Dealer got back to me yesterday new gearbox to be fitted
  2. 2 points
    Dig out the owners manual for your vehicle. It will tell you *exactly* how to work the HVAC system in your vehicle. It will be much more effective than having us out here in TalkHyundai give you our educated guesses.
  3. 2 points
    Heater core is probably clogged... if so, you will need to flush it!
  4. 2 points
    The most common problem is a bad temperature door actuator. This actuator is what controls the temperature door.
  5. 2 points
    Welcome, could you give some more information on your car? Year, mileage, etc.
  6. 2 points
  7. 2 points
    Your opinion , I'm highlighting the issue and knocking their non Hyundai posts down the order . Unfortunately this forum is a spammers paradise as there is no moderators cleaning up this poo , no contact and nothing from reporting posts , absolutely shocking , some forums have up to five moderators dealing with issues within the hour . However I'll stop today , I've wasted a considerable amount of my time without back up , but guess what will happen... The site may as well be closed !
  8. 1 point
    Seems to be a lot of strange things going wrong and being replaced under warranty. Let's get a list going recording these things so other members know to keep an eye on. So, what have you had go wrong, and what was replaced under warranty to rectify the issue?
  9. 1 point
    Don’t waste your time , it’s a con. It took my money and won’t reply to any emails Lol, they never did mate. Even I’m not that nieve, although I maybe nieve enough to think by claiming they just did may deter these wankers from continuing to ruin this once decent forum.
  10. 1 point
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  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
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  17. 1 point
    Don’t waste your time , it’s a con. It took my money and won’t reply to any emails
  18. 1 point
    Don’t waste your time , it’s a con. It took my money and won’t reply to any emails
  19. 1 point
    Update now not putting a new gearbox in refurbishing the original and no new clutch
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Hi Mogey, Touch wood everything has been ok, but the damp weather may highlight any short comings. From experience, the cold and damp have proved a major issue on my previous clutches
  22. 1 point
    Oh was he now? I personally think your chasing the wind. But that's just my opinion.
  23. 1 point
    Ok Thanx man so much for your help
  24. 1 point
    Thanx to all i appreciate. But where i can find the door actuator? Cuse the day before it was cooled but today i had the problem
  25. 1 point
    My car is Hyundai i40 2014 sedan 2.0 gasoline
  26. 1 point
    I've sent a message to the admin. No response yet.
  27. 1 point
    Hi Everyone. Just joined up and having a look around. I have a 2017 Tucson Premium 1.7 CRDi which I take to Europe twice a year and I'm quite pleased with so far.
  28. 1 point
    "To gain further match experience." You scammers choose real lame thread titles....
  29. 1 point
    Problem solved. It was the EGR VALVE. I've removed the DPF internals and I've seen that the car it was smoking, then I've blocked the EGR with a "washer" and the car stopt smoking. Replaced the valve and the car return to make a regen every 120-140 miles (only in town) and no more oil rising. I don't understand why the car didn't had any errors with black smoke from the exhaust
  30. 1 point
    Man, you are full of courage.
  31. 1 point
    Hi all - new member here. My Name is Ciaran I'm on my 3rd i40, first mk2. I've used all 3 as private hire taxis racking up close to 300k between them. So safe to say I know their strengths and weaknesses inside out. Hope I can be a good contributer to the forum. Many thanks
  32. 1 point
    Hi all, Just a quick update on my '16 plate i40 S tourer...... (previous '14 plate became a problem car at 142k miles). This one is now on 204,000 miles. On third set of front pads/second set of front discs..... On original rear discs/second set of pads.... Clutch friction plate and slave cylinder/release bearing changed at 174k miles, the DMF was still fine, so wasn't replaced (still perfect at 204k miles). At 182k miles, an amber EML illuminated, garage identified an oxygen sensor (the easy to reach one!!!), replaced for £72 parts + half hours labour. Light out, and passed the Council Plate Test the next day (it's third - a private car would't even see a test station for another year yet, but mine's had three by two years old... keep 'em coming, I'll pass each one!) The only other thing has been a broken heater switch on the dash, just the "up" button, not the whole unit, but I will live with it, as it still functions fine without the button, and the whole unit has to be replaced, part costs (wait for it): £1,144.86 including vat. Not happening. In every other repect, the car is as it left the showroom, plus a few stonechips! Nothing fallen off, seats as new, fixtures and fittings (apart from heater switch above) all present and working. Intend to keep this one the full three years. Spoke to a colleague last week, he's in a nearly new octavia now, but swapped his '12 plate i40 tourer after 6 years at 360,000 miles (yes, 360,000 miles) miles, still going, no major problems, just getting old. They gave him £650 (£650) part-ex. About right I would say. Who wants to bother with tyre-kickers anyway? Good luck to all, speak soon.... Numbers
  33. 1 point
    The mechanics didn't help to much till now. Every idea, every advice its welcome. Thanks
  34. 1 point
    Thanks Ian. I have found the link to the E530 software you have installed. https://yadi.sk/d/FJQZN-933TvT76 ill update my blog post with the newer version. Currently updating my car. We don’t have DAB here in Ireland as far as I know. It’s a pity as it would be great to have it!!
  35. 1 point
    FYI guys. Found the latest maps for 2018. Download link is here. https://www.drive2.ru/l/501014464502432927/
  36. 1 point
    60.000 mate. My advise is to get the main dealer to do it, it needs to be done correctly. Its not just a matter of dropping and topping up but you’ll be surprised how many mechanics will do just that. A colleague of mine done just that and it lasted around 2000 miles. Basically wrote the car off. Main dealer costs for a new box is around £9000, yes 9k. They’ll charge around £200.
  37. 1 point
    Hi Gareth, I'm on my second i40 tourer 1.7grdi.... the first was the pre-facelift euro 5 on a '13 plate, which was bought pre-registered with 8 miles on the clock. I am an airport private hire driver, covering mainly the southcoast to heathrow/gatwick 2 or 3 times a day, and cover between 300 to 500 miles a day, 5 days a week. My cars are maintained at the main dealer for the duration of the warranty, which at 100,000, is around 14 months for me. Once out of warranty, I use a reliable independent garage, who services 8 of the 13 i40's on our firm, and has experience of these cars which is probably greater than the main dealer, as some of the cars have covered a quarter of a million miles...(I do 93,000 miles a year, based on my current '16 plate having 166,000 showing, all driven by me, over the last 22 months from new). I intend to keep this one for three years, then part-ex it for my third one. The previous '14 plate was generally reliable, apart from a gearbox problem at 14,000 miles, which resulted in a new gearbox under warranty. It then continued in daily use as a long distance taxi, until at 22 months old, with 133,000 miles, the oil level started to rise on the dipstick (I luckily check my oil daily). After a bit of research online, I figured it was failed regeneration, resulting in unburnt excess diesel finding it's way into the sump. There had been no dashboard warning lights, and no logical reason for the repeated excessive attempts by the car to initiate repeated active regenerations, as almost all of my driving is on motorway/dual carriageway at 70mph. I always filled the tank at the end of the day, so as to start with a full tank each morning, and always used premium fuel, usually Shell V-Power. The garage had the injectors out, and sent them to the diesel specialist, who bench tested them and gave them a clean bill of health. The garage them referred my to the diesel specialist for further investigation. The specialist suggested it could just be HP pump seals, which are approx £30 plus vat, but sadly, the hp (fuel) pump is chain driven, and the timing chain is internal. This mean't them trying to borrow the removal tool from Hyundai, which they said they were unable to do (no surprise), so the specialist manufactured a tool to do the job. Once the fuel pump was off the car and bench tested, they told me it appeared fine, so it was probably the seals.They also advised that even though the pump tested fine on the bench, it could still be the problem, as it operates under higher temperatures on the car. The upshot was, I took up their suggestion of just fitting a new pump, as at 133k miles, it might give up some time soon anyway, and I had totted up lots of labour charges already. As it turned out, the problem continued, so I made the decision to get shot of the car at a huge loss, and get a new one. I had spent £1139 so far, and lost 7 days work, so I had to make a bold decision! Disposed of it on wednesday, drove a new one out the showroom on thursday 16th june 2016. The new one (facelifted 2016 model - euro 6) has not had a hiccup, not even a warning light, in 166,000 miles from new. It is serviced every 20,000 miles in accordance with Hyundai's schedule, and has interim oil and filter changes every 10,000 miles. and that's it..... just tyres and brake pads/discs occasionally. Now, to the point: A friend of mine, who runs 4 of these as airport cars on the same firm as me, had the same problem a year later, on a '14 plate euro 5 model, identical to my first one, and in the intervening year since my experience, a cure has been found. It turns out to be an ecu problem, and our garage referred my friend to a garage in town who specialises in ecu re-maps, and general performance tuning. All they do apparently, is dump the programme from the ecu, and re-programme it with the new, up to date software, all licenced and official. Normal price around £550, but my friend got it for £450. So in many cases it is an ecu/electronic problem, rather than a failed sensor, or being told you are driving the car incorrectly!!!! Last point, to do with general sump overfill by garages.... I had this problem from new with the main dealer, and apparently it is because the handbook, and the official service data, says the sump refill is 5.3 litres. I know from experience, as I do the interim oil and filter changes, and have done 15 of them on my drive in the last 4 years, that with an empty sump, and a new oil filter fitted, it takes EXACTLY 5 litres to bring the dipstick up to the full mark. Any more will take it over the max, and the official 5.3 litres will take it about half a centimetre over the maximum mark. It doesn't help that the official data gives a figure that will result in an overfill. Every time. I hope this helps. PS. despite problems with the first model, I really rate these cars as hard working, reliable (post facelift), and apart from official parts prices, generally good value. Yours..... Numbers
  38. 1 point
    Please accept my appologies for the extremely late reply - i somehow managed to miss your post. I followed your very handy instructions and have had my dashcam hardwired for a while now - it works perfectly and was pretty straighforward to follow. I decided not to worry about adding an inline fuse, as i also swapped out the halogen bulbs for less power hungry LED's at the same time. Thank you once again for your nice detailed guide.
  39. 1 point
    I had exact same issue on all 4 wheels hence they couldn't blame a stone chip. Finally got them replaced under warranty
  40. 1 point
    Just done 2000 miles in the 1st 2 weeks of owning an ionic. Boot space is surprisingly large outdoing the Prius and Auris on that score. Averaging 61.5 mpg so far saving me a tenner a day in fuel . I’m starting to enjoy it more as you really do start to work out how to drive it to it’s full potential the more time you spend in it. adaptable cruise , heated steering wheel, heated front and rear seats as well as ventilated front seats. Even as the option for the wing mirrors to automatically tilt downwards while reversing. Obviously it’s without the power of the i40 but sports mode has twice the effectiveness of the i40. Going back to cruise control you can choose between 3 different settings concerning the response. For the record iv got the premium Se with gray leather. And the tyres are 30 notes a piece cheaper than the i40. Servicing is every 10k although so is the i40 now on any new one purchased. Would highly recommend to anyone on hear who ends up with their i40 nicked.
  41. 1 point
    I've given up messing with bulbs now. The high output ones seem to make very little difference to overall brightness and they just seem to need replacing more often.. (about every 3 months @ approx £20 a time). I currently have 2 Sainsbury's H7 bulbs in - £3 each - been in for 6 months!!
  42. 1 point
    Good news 3 days after my call from Hyundai customer services my media unit was replaced, it also came with the latest maps software that was a bonus as my old unit had the original maps.
  43. 1 point
    Now had the car for a year and have had 7 (seven) warranty claims. Water in rear light cluster Water in indicator lens on wing mirror Front parking sensor Leather on steering wheel peeling off Luggage net not retracting Rear reversing camera Roof rails lifting The salesman actually said to me when I bought the car "well that's that, I won't see you again, you have a wonderful car there" I wouldn't disagree. I still think I have a wonderful car but I have seen him more in the last year than I would have liked. M...
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