Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 04/19/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Quick follow up on this - just off the 'phone to the dealership and it is the clutch and flywheel but to my great surprise and very considerable relief they have ordered the parts and will fix it under warranty - I think this deserves a mention as I think they have gone well above and beyond here and I give them full marks for it, and courteously done too! Restored a lot of faith in the car and the brand, first class, good for them. Matt
  2. 2 points
    For the oil filter , a sockets required. 26/27 mm I seem to remember. I find it a little easier if you remove the two 10mm bolts that sit by the bonnet hatch. You can then remove the plastic air inlet hose . Just pull up and remove. Whilst attempting to remove the oil filter ease back the water hose for easier access. You can remove bracket that water hose sits on , also a 10mm. It really is a doddle of a job for anyone .
  3. 2 points
    Hi everyone, i have a hyundai 2011 i40 estate which i,ve had for a while, first Hyundai for me, always had Fords, mondeo's, had a problem with N/S rear caliper sticking on, wasn't the EBS motor, but the piston, had pads changed in April this year, pistion really hard to push back, but garage managed to fit new pads, week ago N/S was down to the metal again, back to garage, this time would not go back, so only fitted new pads on O/S using old O/S pads on N/S just to get me back on the road, garage told me needed new or recon caliper, priced these up, £150 + £100 surcharge refunded when they had my old one back, Hyundai wanted £313 inc vat for new ones, stupid money !!, i,m a very handy guy, so i ordered a new set of seals from Bigg red £23, if i messed them up just buy a recon one, this is what i did, DID NOT HAVE BRAKES WOUND BACK VIA PLUG/COMPUTER. brake off, wheel off, clamped brake pipe then removed, removed EPB plug, removed caliper, 2 x 14mm bolts, brought in house, removed motor, 2 x alien key bolts, used drill and tork bit to wind piston out fully, there is cog which motor sits on, then wound it back fully, removed piston, WATCH THE FLUID, unscrew the piston ram. then the sir clip from the cog at the rear of the piston, removed ram screw/cog, removed small seal for ram screw/cog, then piston seal, cleaned all parts, making sure seal groves are clean, replaced small O ring seal for ram screw/cog, replaced piston seal, replaced ram screw/cog, replaced sir clip, screwed down ram on threaded ram screw, lightly greased pistion seal with grease supplied, slid dust seal onto piston, pushed piston into caliper, dust seal is the tricky one to fit, bit of fiddling and it was in, when you replace motor, there is a rubber O ring that needs to be replaced before fitting, THATS IT !!, ALL DONE, replace caliper, replace brake pipe, replace plug, i fitted new pads, bleed fluid and thats it, no need to reset anything, parking brake works as it should, DON'T KNOW WHAT ALL THE FUSS IS ABOUT !!!!, done both calipers, working a treat !!!!, meant to take pictures of it all but forgot : ( shame, really simple to do, no need to be plugged in and wound back, cost me £100 all in, new disc's/pads/seals/fluid, sorted, if you need any help or have any question, please ask, thanks hope this helps !!!!!
  4. 2 points
    Omg Gareth can't believe they hide behind the warranty!!! The attraction of the warranty to the consumer is the confidence in the build quality of the product and NOT oh well it's cheap shit........... but we've replaced it with more cheap shit at no cost to you whilst your in warranty.
  5. 2 points
    In that case with the ideal motorway journeys it must be some other reason like even a thermostat in some situations preventing correct regeneration. Regeneration relies on too many sensors to perform at their optimum , such a flawed system . It belongs in the bin !
  6. 2 points
  7. 1 point
    Hi Gareth, I'm on my second i40 tourer 1.7grdi.... the first was the pre-facelift euro 5 on a '13 plate, which was bought pre-registered with 8 miles on the clock. I am an airport private hire driver, covering mainly the southcoast to heathrow/gatwick 2 or 3 times a day, and cover between 300 to 500 miles a day, 5 days a week. My cars are maintained at the main dealer for the duration of the warranty, which at 100,000, is around 14 months for me. Once out of warranty, I use a reliable independent garage, who services 8 of the 13 i40's on our firm, and has experience of these cars which is probably greater than the main dealer, as some of the cars have covered a quarter of a million miles...(I do 93,000 miles a year, based on my current '16 plate having 166,000 showing, all driven by me, over the last 22 months from new). I intend to keep this one for three years, then part-ex it for my third one. The previous '14 plate was generally reliable, apart from a gearbox problem at 14,000 miles, which resulted in a new gearbox under warranty. It then continued in daily use as a long distance taxi, until at 22 months old, with 133,000 miles, the oil level started to rise on the dipstick (I luckily check my oil daily). After a bit of research online, I figured it was failed regeneration, resulting in unburnt excess diesel finding it's way into the sump. There had been no dashboard warning lights, and no logical reason for the repeated excessive attempts by the car to initiate repeated active regenerations, as almost all of my driving is on motorway/dual carriageway at 70mph. I always filled the tank at the end of the day, so as to start with a full tank each morning, and always used premium fuel, usually Shell V-Power. The garage had the injectors out, and sent them to the diesel specialist, who bench tested them and gave them a clean bill of health. The garage them referred my to the diesel specialist for further investigation. The specialist suggested it could just be HP pump seals, which are approx £30 plus vat, but sadly, the hp (fuel) pump is chain driven, and the timing chain is internal. This mean't them trying to borrow the removal tool from Hyundai, which they said they were unable to do (no surprise), so the specialist manufactured a tool to do the job. Once the fuel pump was off the car and bench tested, they told me it appeared fine, so it was probably the seals.They also advised that even though the pump tested fine on the bench, it could still be the problem, as it operates under higher temperatures on the car. The upshot was, I took up their suggestion of just fitting a new pump, as at 133k miles, it might give up some time soon anyway, and I had totted up lots of labour charges already. As it turned out, the problem continued, so I made the decision to get shot of the car at a huge loss, and get a new one. I had spent £1139 so far, and lost 7 days work, so I had to make a bold decision! Disposed of it on wednesday, drove a new one out the showroom on thursday 16th june 2016. The new one (facelifted 2016 model - euro 6) has not had a hiccup, not even a warning light, in 166,000 miles from new. It is serviced every 20,000 miles in accordance with Hyundai's schedule, and has interim oil and filter changes every 10,000 miles. and that's it..... just tyres and brake pads/discs occasionally. Now, to the point: A friend of mine, who runs 4 of these as airport cars on the same firm as me, had the same problem a year later, on a '14 plate euro 5 model, identical to my first one, and in the intervening year since my experience, a cure has been found. It turns out to be an ecu problem, and our garage referred my friend to a garage in town who specialises in ecu re-maps, and general performance tuning. All they do apparently, is dump the programme from the ecu, and re-programme it with the new, up to date software, all licenced and official. Normal price around £550, but my friend got it for £450. So in many cases it is an ecu/electronic problem, rather than a failed sensor, or being told you are driving the car incorrectly!!!! Last point, to do with general sump overfill by garages.... I had this problem from new with the main dealer, and apparently it is because the handbook, and the official service data, says the sump refill is 5.3 litres. I know from experience, as I do the interim oil and filter changes, and have done 15 of them on my drive in the last 4 years, that with an empty sump, and a new oil filter fitted, it takes EXACTLY 5 litres to bring the dipstick up to the full mark. Any more will take it over the max, and the official 5.3 litres will take it about half a centimetre over the maximum mark. It doesn't help that the official data gives a figure that will result in an overfill. Every time. I hope this helps. PS. despite problems with the first model, I really rate these cars as hard working, reliable (post facelift), and apart from official parts prices, generally good value. Yours..... Numbers
  8. 1 point
    Just done 2000 miles in the 1st 2 weeks of owning an ionic. Boot space is surprisingly large outdoing the Prius and Auris on that score. Averaging 61.5 mpg so far saving me a tenner a day in fuel . I’m starting to enjoy it more as you really do start to work out how to drive it to it’s full potential the more time you spend in it. adaptable cruise , heated steering wheel, heated front and rear seats as well as ventilated front seats. Even as the option for the wing mirrors to automatically tilt downwards while reversing. Obviously it’s without the power of the i40 but sports mode has twice the effectiveness of the i40. Going back to cruise control you can choose between 3 different settings concerning the response. For the record iv got the premium Se with gray leather. And the tyres are 30 notes a piece cheaper than the i40. Servicing is every 10k although so is the i40 now on any new one purchased. Would highly recommend to anyone on hear who ends up with their i40 nicked.
  9. 1 point
    I’ve ordered an OE filter and the Quantum oil you linked to on the other thread. Which may cause me an issue as that’s 5l lol. I’ll cross that bridge when I come to it. I’ll let you know how I get on...
  10. 1 point
    Insert the smaller 5.8mm diameter tube , only an empty container if quantity is 4L which usually isn't the best value compared to 5L .
  11. 1 point
    Replaced thermostat today. My advice is , unless your mechanical minded get the main dealer to do it. would probably only be an hours labour. After jacking up and removing under belly I found the thermostat was located at the top of the engine. took me over 3 hours once I worked out how to access it. Iv no doubt it’s made awkward so to stop the likes of me taking the job on. Access is made easier once you’ve removed the battery, top of air filter and the hose to the turbo. Just two bolts on top of housing need to be removed. To get to one particular bolt on thermostat housing ,I had to remove the cover from the vacuum pump. Now I never realised although a few on here would, that once you’ve removed the vacuum pump cover it’s a nasty little awkward job to put back on. The screws are not great as I managed to break off a head whilst screwing back on. As suspected, the thermostat needed replacing as temperature gauge is now back to normal. After all that I couldn’t be arsed to flush the coolant . That’s for another day.
  12. 1 point
    Free delivery if you order your filter as well (over £40)
  13. 1 point
    Mann has always had an O ring with new oil filter. fuel filter is located directly behind battery and ecu , iv always removed both ,makes it a hole lot easier. also remove the bracket for the ecu , 2 x 10mm nuts I seem to remember. i managed to source an original brand new MAF from ebay for around £70. coincedently I was speaking with a fella who worked for an oil company yesterday and he told me Castrol is something you’ll find on the bottom of your shoe.
  14. 1 point
    No flush , it can dislodge any built up crap that can block the finer oil galleries. Technically you shouldn't need it as modern C3 oils especially those designed for long interval drains will have high dose of detergents . Filters , much and muchness but Mann is VAG OEM .
  15. 1 point
    Just time consuming. Once the pumps out it can be dismantled to give it a like new condition although iv only done to that extent the once. would be interested to see if anyone else’s gets to a right old state or weather it’s were I get my fuel although 90% is from BP.
  16. 1 point
    Why don't you do the servicing yourself ? Oil £20 ish , filter maybe £4 .
  17. 1 point
    Hi, yes couple of hour's, most of that cleaning and making sure their spotless inside, there is no need for a wind back tool, believe me, the piston is not connected to the piston, when you wind the EBS back with some diagnostic tool, it winds back the ram that is pushing the piston, they should just push back, i suppose if you don't use a diagnostic tool they can be wound back with tool, just as easy to take the motor off and wind back with drill i suppose, wish i'd taken some pictures to show you the insides of these calipers and how they work and how easy to fix !!
  18. 1 point
    Seems to be a lot of strange things going wrong and being replaced under warranty. Let's get a list going recording these things so other members know to keep an eye on. So, what have you had go wrong, and what was replaced under warranty to rectify the issue?
  19. 1 point
    Vehicle manufacturers don't always have the best answers , that's why their standard mapping , suspension set ups , etc are easily eclipsed by aftermarket . I've always gone above the recommended pressures and have yet to experience over inflation middle wear whilst experiencing better handling and mpg .
  20. 1 point
    Incorrectly fitted , rush job.
  21. 1 point
    Car broke down yesterday suspected alternator , and found the alternator fuse has been pikey mended with wire and solder and had broke . Other 150A fuse is for the starter motor . Hyundai are confused.com . Anyone replaced this two fuse unit ?
  22. 1 point
    Alternator is fine mate , just the pikey fuse repair , repaired again a little more robust until they turn up. That part number is probably wrong as Google and FleaBay suggest it's a single 150A fuse .
  23. 1 point
    Update: Finished replacing it and now works as it should. Had to remove all clips and screws holding the bumper to access the middle one. Those on the sides are accessible from underneath. Took about 2.5 hours total time. Silicon sealing on the old was loose.
  24. 1 point
    Good shout , I've got them around 40psi now , absolutely fine and makes sense , manufactures don't always have the best answer !
  25. 1 point
    Replaced my fuel filter today. Thought I'd share this as it's something I feel all members should take note of. Whenever I replace my fuel filter I also remove fuel pump ( fuel tank end ) and give it a clean. Bareing in mind I do this every 20000 miles I think you'll be surprised with the crap contained in the pump. pictures I hope to be able to show to follow.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Well there it is folks , it's a side arangement . So wether the side oil cooler drains into the vertical oil filter housing remains to be seen next summer when we service it for a fraction of the price .
  28. 1 point
    Whenever my dealer serviced mine , On every occasion the oil level would be above the mark. wether they just have a certain amount they just plonk in you'll never know. iv always found that the oil turns black almost immediately tbh. iv just ordered oil & filter today to do at the weekend. I do it 10000 miles religiously. I'll take note of how of how long it takes the oil to turn .
  29. 1 point
    Modern diesels do especially if they have an inaccessible oil cooler that could contain 500 ml of used black oil containing diesel . Egr with it's extra soot production concequense . On my VW I have the pleasure of a disabled egr and the accessible oil cooler directly below the oil filter housing , sucked out with an oil extractor and 6 month oil changes the fresh oil stays remarkebly clean for months .
  30. 1 point
    That's understandable , the wrong type of rain !
  31. 1 point
    I also had this problem, less than a dribble coming from washer jets but can hear motor working. Got a mechanic to drain the washer tank and clean out crap blocking the filter to the washer jets and refilled. Had to remove drivers side wheel and inner arch to access the tank. All working now. Hope this helps
  32. 1 point
    Well of the 3 5W30 C3's they're all 69 centiStokes at 40 Celsius . If it goes quiet without info , calls continued not to be returned , I find walking into the dealership naked usually gets their attention .
  33. 1 point
    Confirmed , Hyundia and Kia spend 5 minutes designing a car . Sales first , design better later after the public have kindly pointed out the issues.
  34. 1 point
    Oil sampling kit ordered. Will keep you updated and post results when I get them
  35. 1 point
    With http://www.theoillab.co.uk/downloads/ think I'm going to go for it... forewarned is forearmed...
  36. 1 point
    A friend has just been round the block like yourself but with Kia, same engine as I've looked . kia done this and that , until finally finding the fault. DPF replacement. His problem started with loss of power as he came off the moterway. good luck mate.
  37. 1 point
    Well above 45 mpg hasn't been seen as an average journey in the Premium . Bet they didn't replace the turbo that was beginning to get wrecked with diesel contaminated oil . All I have to say is.. And whilst in get them to paint the dam thing yellow !
  38. 1 point
    I tried to update maps via a Hyundai site using USB stick. it crashed and I now do not have use of anything on the touch screen or buttons. I have one radio station and that's it. I cant find anyone that can reset this , unless I go back to the Hyundai dealer and do a factory resest by Navteq , which will not be cheap. thanks nick
  39. 1 point
    This will be of interest to you Ken. puts to bed their safety claim. https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-pulls-right-or-left-when-driving-or-braking
  40. 1 point
    If that's right it would make perfect sense . As I now understand it ! From the left an unsighted two bolt flange and feed pipe very similar to one posted above from the exhaust manifold so exhaust gasses enters the cooler controlled via the black plastic actuator . The next fixed metal pipe is were coolant comes in to the cooler to cool the exhaust gasses . Next fixed metal pipe maybe coolant exiting the cooler . Black plastic fixed pipe above is unknown . Cooled exhaust gasses then exit the cooler controlled by the electronically actuated actuator via the visable two bolt flange and said pipe to the throttle body .
  41. 1 point
    Ooo yeah , in need some Tipex , you Sir are a scuffler and in need of some fetching driving slippers
  42. 1 point
    Car currently in having a new radiator under warranty. Thanks for the responses guys.
  43. 1 point
    Well, the car has been in to the garage, and come out with a new clutch housing and seal. All done under warranty. Can't believe the difference, like a new car now! The brakes are still an issue, but there is no way they will get done under warranty, so I am looking in to getting them done elsewhere. We're not getting charged for the courtesy car either I am glad to say. All is well again! Thanks all for the advice and so on, much appreciated, Garry
  44. 1 point
    If you wish to avoid purchasing the grossly expensive rear wiper blade from your friendly Hyundai dealer, (north of £20!) be aware that the blade's frame can be dismantled so that a new metal-backed rubber can be inserted. Some independent motor factors still stock lengths of that product and it's as cheap as chips if you can locate it. If you can get hold of it and want to tackle the job, here's how it's done: 1) Hold the centre section of the frame in one hand then, with the other hand, bend one of the articulated end pieces downwards in the same direction as the curve in the frame. It will un-click from its retaining lugs and can then be slid off out of the way. 2) Remove the metal-backed rubber in the same direction. 3) Insert the new piece of metal-backed rubber after cutting to length. 4) Re-fit the articulated end-piece by positioning it then squeezing it gently with your fingers till it clicks back into place. Job done! NB Do not attempt to bend back the metal lugs at either end of the frame assembly to release the rubber as it's made from a cast alloy-type material and will almost certainly snap off. Indalo
  45. 1 point
    Yes, I have always had the same issue I too have had the steering wheel replaced, but pretty sure it was the same before that. Tried flagging it with Hyundai, but kept getting fobbed off with 'it's the tracking', so given up asking them now.
  46. 1 point
    Thanks Hyundai72 ... yet according to Hyundai Customer Services I am the only one to have complained about the i40! They will not look at this forum, because Internet forums do not matter to them ha ha idiots! I have told them and the dealer - Burrows - that I will never touch the dealer again and will never ever buy Hyundai ever again. I paid for the 3 year service plan, the G3 paint protection as my long term committment ... and they have offered nothing. Yes, there is a five year warranty, but does that include refunds for the amount of wasted time, fuel costs ... no... and one day that warranty will run out. I am delighted to have stopped others buying Hyundai and the i40, because the headaches the car brings is just not worth it. Recently on 'Undercover Boss', which I do not think showed them in great light. Their marketing statements about the car are factually bordering on sheer lies ... perhaps a new show can be created for Hyundai UK to 'Car owning nightmare' - would be delighted to speak with Tony Whitehorn or Nick Tunnell about this, but appears they do not have to speak to their customers! Take these statements from Hyundai regarding the i40 "It all flows perfectly" "Smart efficient engines" "Refined interior with premium levels of comfort" "New thinking, new possibilities" "Cost savings efficencies" "Refinement & comfort" "Inner serenity" ... "Premium quality surfaces to fine seat fabrics" None of these are correct at all ... inner serenity ... this car is driving me insane! It is the first one I have had with any problems, and the service offered is worse than the build quality and quality controls Hyundai clearly use!
  47. 1 point
    of the six I40 we had since may the tally is: 1 x engine blew after 3 days 1 x clutch 4 x punctures. 6 x poor handsfree - started fitting parrots now. 6 x poor sat navs with no tmc. No longer ordering from hyundai !
  48. 1 point
    Hello there. New to this site but owned my i40 for 6 months. This is my first Hyundai as previously have always had VWs or Skodas. My last car was a Skoda Octavia vRS diesel which I had owned from new for nearly 5 years. I had had no problems with this car (apart from being burgled by someone trying to steal it) but now have a longer commute to work so wanted something more comfortable. When my fiance changed her car last year I managed to find her a pre-reg i30 diesel comfort with over £5k off the list price. She just wanted a 5 door hatchback with a diesel engine. We have been so impressed by the car I intended to buy one in premium spec for myself. However that all changed when I got to the dealership! When I walked into the showroom back in January, it was the week that the i40 saloon was launched in the UK. Inside sat an i40 saloon in black and I fell in love with its shape. I walked away to think about it and returned in March having been swayed back to the i30, but the new version. The dealer gave me the keys to the new i30 in style trim so that I could have a look around, but while I looked around it and sat in it my eyes kept being drawn to the i40 saloon sat next to it on the forecourt. I said this to the dealer and he said he would do a deal on the i40. The car was their demonstrator with only 60 miles on the clock and he would knock nearly £4K off the list price of a new one. I took it for a test drive and loved it and became the proud owner of an i40 CRDi Style in titanium silver. Compared to my Octavia the i40 is no ball of fire, but then again that is not what I bought the car for. It is a great cruiser and really comfortable. The equipment levels for the price are exceptionable. If I wanted an Octavia or Superb with the same level of kit I would be a few grand lighter. I also love the way the car looks and like to drive something different from the norm. In the 6 months I have owned it I have only seen 2 other i40 saloons on the road. Its surprising you dont see more of them considering what you get for your money and the positive reviews from the motoring press. My only negatives so far is that the steering is a bit light (something that has come up in other reviews of the car), the boot hinges intrude quite a bit, the lack of accessories for it and the fuel economy has been average at around 50mpg. I recently fitted a K&N air filter which has improved the mpg by about 3-5 mpg. The car has done 9200 miles so far so it might get better as the miles pile on. I used to notice that the mpg would increase on the VWs and Skodas I had after about 30,000 miles, so time will tell. Otherwise I am really pleased with the car and really really pleased Ive found this forum!
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Just picked up a new Hyundai ix35? Then let us know, and post a photo