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Showing most liked content since 04/24/2016 in all areas

  1. 5 likes
    There has been a lot of discussion about the software/firmware update available for Hyundai media systems spread across a few threads, I have preformed the update on my own i40 and a friends ix35 and I am responding to the request for a step by step guide. If the mods feel it appropriate it might be useful as a sticky. 1. Go to http://www.navigation.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/Navteq-HyundaiEMEA-Site and select your car from the drop down boxes on the left. 2. This will take you to the update page for your vehicle. Scroll down the page and in the bottom left you will see a link for the software/firmware update. Click on it. 3. The instructions will appear in front of you along with the download link. You must ensure that your current software is 5.1.3 in order to proceed, if it is a version lower than that then you need to get your Hyundai dealer to get to at least 5.1.3. To check your current version press and hold the settings button on the media system for at least 5 secs, the display will then show current versions. 4. If you have defined that you are suitable for an update then click on the download link and when prompted save it to your PC. Ensure that you have an empty USB thumb drive at least 1GB in size to put the file on. 5. Unzip the contents of the downloaded file directly to the root directory of the thumb drive. 6. Start up the engine of your Hyundai and insert the thumb drive into the USB port. It will read and automatically start the program. Follow the instructions on the display of your Hyundai screen. 7. The initial installation of files is reasonably quick, then it will go I to decompression of a 1.42Gb file which takes a good 15 minutes, this is helped though by the fact that at least the radio still works giving you something to listen to whilst the install proceeds! After decompression another section of install takes place which again is reasonably quick. AT NO POINT IN THE INSTALL PROCESS SHOULD YOU SWITCH OFF THE ENGINE OR REMOVE THE USB DRIVE!!! 8. The media system will then restart, so the screen will go black and then the Hyundai logo will re-appear, the system though will go back not the installation procedure because you will still have the thumb drive inserted in the USB port. The same update screen you will have seen previously will appear, but the current version and update version will be the same number, indicating that the update process has worked. 9. Press CANCEL on the touchscreen and you will be returned to the media screen you were previously on, so radio, bluetooth or GPS. By pressing the settings button then pressing TRAFFIC on the touchscreen you should now see that TMC is available, give the system time to get the latest traffic data through the FM antenna.
  2. 2 likes
    Well after nearly 3 years of ownership and numerous complaints resulting in modifications including the clutch damper even being bypassed with Hyundai Technical Alert. The latest HTA modified clutch damper removes the heavy clutch and low biting problem and clutch operation is now as easy as the new facelift i40 model. Gear change is still a little stiff but I don't get out of the car anymore with a limp after being stuck in heavy traffic. If your vehicle is less than 2 years old I would recommend getting this done before the clutch 2 year warranty expires.
  3. 2 likes
    Hi all had i40 tourer for around a year its a 2012 premium blue drive version as usual its been to the dealers a few times and as i type its there again .i will look to post a new thread in relevent spot,overall nice car but spoilt with inherant design flaws .cheers all, great site .sam
  4. 2 likes
    Took the plunge on Saturday after an email from my dealer and bought a Moon Stone coloured Tucson SE Nav. Pre registered, 10 miles on the clock and a massive saving on list. Put my I40 in partex, shall miss that car as its grown on me
  5. 2 likes
    Yes, I think there comes a point when main dealer servicing becomes disproportionately expensive, relative to the inherent remaining value of the car so I agree with your decision. Mine remains under warranty till March 2017 but after months of indecision, I have just this morning put down a deposit on another car, somewhat sadly, not a Hyundai but a Kia this time. I have visited the local Hyundai dealer several times recently and I'm afraid they don't have any deals on any of the few models that interest me, sufficient to grab my attention. This time, I am having the Optima Sportswagon GT Line-S, which is more a toyshop on wheels than a serious driver's car. It should suit me though as it's the DCT auto and as I drive pretty leisurely, that's all I need. On a test drive, it felt very smooth but a little lethargic compared to the i40 but it was probably in Eco mode and I didn't try switching it around to explore the other settings. It seemed to ride a bit better than the i40 and it feels the way a new i40 should be but sadly isn't. Initially, I couldn't get a penny discount from any of the dealers I visited - 'It's a new model sir and we expect to sell every one we can get' - even 'Autoebid' failed to get any discount from their extensive list of contacts! Fortunately, 'Carwow' came up trumps in the end and I'm getting the car for 3K under list in round numbers. That eases my mind quite a bit as I think the list price is well over the top for that model and puts it into some premium territory. £30 VED and fuel consumption not substantially different to my i40 are major attractions for me plus the extensive safety kit and driver aids which help insurance premiums. The downside is that it comes only with an inflation kit, rather than a spare wheel, like many other cars these days. I did consider buying another wheel with tyre plus the tools but at £350, but decided to forego it, particularly as it cannot go into the wheel well which houses the HK subwoofer. Besides, by the time one pays to replenish the gunge used in re-inflating a tyre, (if successful) then paying for a new tyre because tyrefitters won't repair a gunged one, or two tyres if there is a need to ensure similar tread depth on both sides of the axle, the economics don't really stack up. The worst scenario is recovery by the RAC and a new tyre or two. Had there been room for the spare wheel in the underfloor compartment, I might well have bitten the bullet and paid the money. Anyway, as things stand, I don't expect to take delivery till Mid-November and I just hope it doesn't take longer than that - you know what it's like when you set your heart on something! As for the i40, £9450 part-ex really swung it for me as that's considerably more than other dealers were offering. They won't lose money on it as it'll sell for 10K easily with FSH, one owner and 29500 miles on it. All in all, I can't knock the i40 overall. Sure, the fuel figures are way off the advertised numbers and ride and handling fall a bit short of the best but reliability has been good. If Hyundai had upgraded the i40 in the way and to the level that Kia have managed with the Optima, I'd probably have remained with the brand. I have opted for the pre-paid servicing package of 5 services/5years for £609 (transferable) which seems very reasonable to me as the car still has 2-years warranty on the major components after the 5th service so should be easily sellable at that point. Whether I actually keep it that long is difficult to say but I baulked at the tax and fuel consumption of the SUV-type vehicles which have become so popular in recent times. Most of them don't have as much luggage space as an i40 Tourer/Kia Sportswagon too! Curiously, the Hyundai Tucson actually comes with a full-size alloy spare wheel which is something of a novelty these days. I was very tempted by the pre-reg, discounted, top-of-the-range auto model offered by my local dealer but I rejected the idea on the basis of high, on-going costs. Time will tell if I have made the right choice but a seriously bad winter could have me cursing myself for not choosing a 4WD vehicle this time round which was my plan at the outset....and the time before....and the time before that! Indalo
  6. 2 likes
    I have an i40 premium saloon and if i let the steering wheel go while i am driving straight it pulls to the left , i have had the tracking done 3 times and a full wheel alignment and it still does it , has anyone else experienced this problem ? I had the steering wheel changed under warranty , could this be causing the problem ?
  7. 2 likes
    Hi DC 1) Remove key from fob 2) Using the flat tip of the key, place it firmly in the little gap between the two lugs about 3mm along from the rectangular hole into which the key fits. 3) Gently but firmly twist the key till you slightly prise apart the two halves of the case at the top. Then take a flat bladed screwdriver and very carefully open the gap around the more curved side of the fob until you have the two parts loosened but still in position. 4) Now, before you carefully remove one half from the other, the little key release button has a tiny spring behind it which will be lost if you are careless here so look out for that. 5) Once you have accomplished the separation, the battery compartment is self-evident but prise out the battery from the side without the little metal spring and don't lose that part. 6) The battery is one of the CR2032 type which are readily available in plenty of cheap shops. I'd advise paying a little extra for one with a name as some of the look-alike ones from China are really not very good. A card of assorted batteries from the 99p shop may seem like a bargain but I'd rather pay the price of a pint for a single CR2032 from any of the well-known brands as it's still a cheap item and will probably last 3 years easily. Re-assembly is, of course, a reversal of the strip-down and ends with a satisfying click when the case snaps together under gentle pressure. If you haven't already modified your key fob so the little release button sits flush with the surrounding case material, this would be a good opportunity to do it. I reckon the best way is to use a Dremel-type tool with a small cutting disc or alternatively, a grinding wheel to remove some of the length from the button. You can safely take it right down till it's flush and then the key and fob will no longer come apart accidentally. The tip of a pen or a pin will be required to press the button after that. Indalo
  8. 2 likes
    Having been bothered on a couple of occasions recently by some creaking from the dashboard/windscreen area which several of you have complained of previously, I popped into Screwfix and picked up a can of WD40 silicone lubricant. On returning to the car, I opened it and sprayed just a tiny amount along the join between glass and dash board from the mid point of the screen towards the passenger end. Within minutes, I found myself on a poor road surface and.....NOT A PEEP! I really did use it very sparingly as I didn't want any out-of-sight electrical parts to suffer any liquid ingress and having cured the problem, I shall be interested to see how long that area stays silent but for the moment, I'm delighted to be free of creaks. I might try rubbing some into my lower back! Indalo
  9. 2 likes
    Here is the GDS diagram, in case you are having trouble getting the bumper off. Thanks, no1spaceman. i40 bumper.pdf
  10. 2 likes
    Check out the i40 forum Tony. Several contributors there have had major difficulties with dealers and Hyundai UK. Indalo
  11. 2 likes
    Hyundai UK pictures of Wellhouse's i800 camper.
  12. 2 likes
  13. 1 like
    Car currently in having a new radiator under warranty. Thanks for the responses guys.
  14. 1 like
    Surely it's a simple matter for a Hyundai dealer to re-programme your spare key? If that fixes it, it's probably worth a small charge. Having said that, it might be worth speaking to an auto electrician as I had a problem with the alarm system on my motorhome which I couldn't fix and the guy replaced the whole system with an up-to-date version of the same model for not a lot of money. Dedicated auto-electricians are pretty clued up on all these new-fangled things on cars that work by magic! Tom
  15. 1 like
    Excellent !
  16. 1 like
    Hi Lewie84, did the hold & autostop lights still come on when you next used the car, or has it sorted itself out? There are occasions where the system turns itself off by design; if you keep the brake pedal depressed for too long (eg, all the way down a long hill) it disables the system. This is the expected behaviour, but will reset when you next start the car.
  17. 1 like
    Hey guys I'm new to the forum. I bought a 62 plate ix35 just over a year ago from Arnold Clark. its just a 1.6 petrol so not much power but enough for what i need and i would of thought that it will be the same method on the different trim models. So the time has come that i needed to have a tow bar as my old work horse Pajero was no longer with us. I'm not towing heavy things anymore just a small trailer with the motor bike on ect. Anyway so the time has come and to order and fit one. i hunted online and couldn't find much about them and any guides or how too's. Its pretty straight forward and you only need a few basic tools to do the job. I called the dealer i got the car from just out of interest to see how much it would cost to have one fitted they quoted £450 for a fixed and £600+ for a detachable one. I was worried that the tow ball would effect the reversing sensors so i thought id need to go for a detachable one but at that price their was no way i was going to pay that. I risked it and went for a fixed one as i can turn the sensors off from inside the car turns out the fixed one doesn't effect the operation of then sensors at all. The job itself us super easy. Only thing i was nervous about was the wiring side like splicing into the wiring loom. So i started looking at vehicle specific wiring looms for the tow bar electrics. But at just under £200 that was also a no go. Now it would be a different story had i been needing a 13 pin trailer socket with the ability of trailer stability function but i don't. If you haven't done this before I would recommend allowing a day to carry out the work so that you are not stressed and rushing. I fitted the tow bar in a evening after work but had to stop as it got dark and then did the wiring the following day which took me 3 hours taking my time. So my reason for this post is to hopefully help people in the future do it them self's and not have to pay dealer prices. Theirs not much on the net about this so hopefully somebody finds this useful. First off id like to say you do this entirely at your own risk. Cause any damage to your car its not my fault I have listed what wires go to what plugs this is what it was on my car i guess their is a chance the same car could be different i doubt it but double check each wire it only takes 2 secs and eliminates the risk of frying your electrics or blowing a fuse. I bought a Witter tow bar off ebay for £130 + postage. It came with the the 7 pin plug and the cable to take it up into the car. I also had to buy a bypass relay for £16 that came with the wires to splice into the loom and all the scotch locks, fuse ect. So the tow bar arrived in a big box a few days later their is all the bits and bobs and some basic instructions. When fitting the tow bar leave all bolts loose until everything is fitted and then tighten and torque up!!! So to start they recommend you drop the exhaust back box off its hangers. You don't need to bother with doing this. the tow bar squeezes up just fine without it although their is 3 small Phillips head screws holding the bottom of the bumper in i removed them to allow flex of the plastic bumper for tightening the bolts. Their is 2 brackets that you bolt into the chassis legs with 4 bolts. The chassis legs are pre threaded so the bolts just go straight in. The mount on the left hand side went in no bother for me but the one on the right was a total pig. Because Hyundai pre thread them but don't cap them they just rust in the threads i had to use a tap and dye set to clean the threads up a little but you could use a sacrificial bolt to try clean them up. Now for this particular kit they bolt in with M10 x 30 x 1.25 , Lock washers and O.D flat washers and bolts torqued to 52Nm. Once the brackets are fitted you have to slot the bar up in between the brackets and bolt it up with the M12 x 35 x 1.75 with lock nut washers and 25mm O.D flat washers and then torqued to 80Nm Now their is the neck to fit to fit it is held in place with two packer plates and 2 M12 x 100 x 1.75 bolts and Nyloc nuts torqued to 80Nm. Now fit the plate and the tow ball to the neck with the M16 x 50 x 2.0 and lock washers and nut. and Torque to 200Nm. what i have written their is what the instructions recommended but i actually fitted the tow bar ball and neck to the tow bar before fitting the bar to the brackets. That's the easy bit done. Now this bit requires a little bit of thought and much easier with 2 people. Most of all the work is done on the left hand side of the boot. I had read that their is a grey plug that you can take all the feeds from but i couldn't see anything so i took it from the rear light cluster plugs. wrap the trailer plug cable round the tow bar once or twice and route it to the left hand side of the vehicle. Open the boot and remove the floor and spare wheel ect. their is a plastic trim where the boot catch is, to remove this their is 3 Phillips head screws that are on poppers you may need a trim leaver to lever them out or just pull them out, now pull that plastic trim off its on poppers so it will pop off, now on the left hand side their is two small Phillips screws at the bottom of the left hand trim panel remove them and pull out the trim. same again its on poppers but it will come free just pull it. you wont get the whole trim off because of the rear seat but fold it forward and you'll be able to pull it out far enough to get access. Their is 12v socket at trim light disconnect them to allow a little extra movement. Remove the rear left light with the two Phillips head screws that hold it in place and disconnect the plug and lay to one side. Push out the rubber gromit and pull the cable into the boot where you can work on it. Now comes the bit i wasn't looking forward to finding what wire does what. Just take your time. i'm about to list what wires did what on my car and the particular bypass relay i had so hopefully it will help you but i strongly suggest that you check each wire yourself before you get hacking away at wires. You need to push the black tow bar cable wire up the the gromit in the boot floor on the left hand side of the boot. Now strip back a little of the outer plastic protection to revel the different coloured wires. Put the correct wires into the correct plugs on the bypass relay plug 1 - Yellow 2 - Blue 3 - isn't plugged int the relay as it is a earth 4 - Green 5 - Brown 6 - Red 7 - Black Now that is the tow bar electrics connected to the bypass relay done. Easy right? Now you have to figure out when plug does what on the light cluster plug. Go switch on the hazard light and plug your volt meter or test light into the end of the plug to work out what cable does what. once you have found what cable does does the hazards/indicator just a case of matching them with the bypass relay and connecting them with the either the scotch locks or soldering them. On the left hand side of the car - Bypass relay - Car wirirng loom wire Yellow - White Red - Green & Black Black - Green On the right hand side of the car - Bypass relay - Car wirirng loom wire Green - Pink Brown - Black & Brown You will need to take take the right hand boot trim off and the light cluster out they are taken out exactly the same as the left hand side. Work out what cable does the indicator and what does their tail light and splice into the wires and run them across the boot neatly to the other side and connect into the bypass relay. The bypass relay needs a power supply as its a type of switch so connect the two earth cables that come out of the trailer electrics cable and the bypass relay to a length of wire and earth it onto the car somewhere suitable. i used one of the bolts that hold the top half of the trim on on the left hand side. splice into the positive cable to the 12v socket in your boot on the left hand side on my car its the blue wire and then connect into the positive feed into the bypass relay and your DONE! well close enough. Its just a case of using a bit of double sided tape like number pad fixing tape to fix that relay to the side of the car. Tidy up any wires and put everything back together in the reverse order of how you took it all apart. Then once all that's done plug in your trailer or trailer board or volt meter and try it out see if its all working. You will probably find that once their is a trailer connected or light bar that the relay has a beeping tone when indicating this is just to let you know their working. once disconnected it wont make any noise. When you are splicing into the cars loom splice into a bit of cable that sits inside the car where it is dry and away from the elements it helps to reduce the risk of any connections failing. Now you are finally done and get Towing! I hope that this is of use to somebody. I know it would have been very useful to me as i would have been able to relax a lot more when doing it.
  18. 1 like
    I can't see them really being 5000K as to gain an 'E' mark they must be below around 4300K 4400K as above might be considered as emergency services. So 5000K is a bit of 'marketing' . Also they're not perceived as a true performance bulb as many reviews suggest unlike Osram Night Breaker and Philips Xtreme Vision so bit of an experiment as going to also try..
  19. 1 like
    That don't sound good Gareth. Think everyone apart from Hyundai the cause of that one. Just a pity Hyundai have buried its corporate head in the sand and haven't done any proactive recalls to prevent failure or even acknowledge that coolent/fuel getting into engine oil.
  20. 1 like
    We've had our i40 Tourer Style (2012 model), since May 2013. Although we really like this car, we've had numerous issues with the vehicle - most of which have been rectified under the 5 year warranty (thank God!)... e.g. failed rear parking sensors, fuel filter issues, various internal electrical faults. However, today we learnt that after 3 years ownership that the recent loss of coolant is caused as a result of a cracked engine block and our dealership are applying to Hyundai UK for a replacement engine! Dealership state that many of the 2012 engines, built in India, are being found to have this problem. The coolant was replaced as part of the 60k service a few months ago. Two weeks ago the i40 went into 'limp home' mode when the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve) became defective, meaning the car had to be towed to the dealership. During the repairs, the coolant was found to be very low with no visible sign of any leaks. Coolant topped up and we were asked to return after a further 500-1000 miles, which we did today. Coolant levels have substantially dropped again and after a pressure test today they've confirmed a diagnosis today which reveals the dealership suspects the engine block is fractured and needs to be replaced. They are requesting a new block from Hyundai. This work will cost in excess of £5000 and take a weeks labour and inconvenience to us, but thankfully this is covered under the 5 year warranty. This is shocking news, but more essentially questions our confidence in the whole Hyundai brand. We'd love to get a new i40 one day, but after a whole catalogue of defects we've had rectified over the last 3 years and now this major engine defect - why should we? Also, how long has this engine block been defective? What impact has this had on the life of the car and it's efficiency and performance while we've owned it. We feel very let down by Hyundai, despite the faults being repaired under the warranty. The inconvenience has been irritating to say the least. A new engine we are told will not receive a new five year warranty and our 5 year standard warranty will still expire in March 2017.​ Hyundai are clearly aware of the many i40's that are being returned with this major defect in it's replacement engine blocks, so why haven't they informed owners and recalled these specific models at the very least for checks to be made? I'm very, very keen to learn about other i40 owners who have experienced similar problems and what response they've had from Hyundai UK if any. Rather than spending £5000 on replacing my four year old engine - will Hyundai give me £5000 off a new i40 in an attempt to reward my loyalty to their brand???
  21. 1 like
    Yeh true say. 186bhp with egr and dpf still in I dont know the diameter its the standard one for Hyundai Yeh definitely. Saving up for the rest modifications lol - Gonna make this Baby sooo speedy and sexy lol!!
  22. 1 like
    I bought it of Autotrader from Hyundai - Its just a annual service the car goes through via Hyundai - Il do the egr dpf after its had its service just to be safe lol
  23. 1 like
    Yeah I've had that, yet another parking sensor fault
  24. 1 like
    The rear o/s disc is definitely scored and I'd say in need of replacement. I've contacted my local garage and he has all the up to date diagnostic gubbens required for the job. Just need to get the price from him now for the replacement.
  25. 1 like
    Well, the car has been in to the garage, and come out with a new clutch housing and seal. All done under warranty. Can't believe the difference, like a new car now! The brakes are still an issue, but there is no way they will get done under warranty, so I am looking in to getting them done elsewhere. We're not getting charged for the courtesy car either I am glad to say. All is well again! Thanks all for the advice and so on, much appreciated, Garry
  26. 1 like
    Another Ioniq owner, you're the second on the forum I think. Welcome!
  27. 1 like
    I think I must have misunderstood? If the OP had just said the price quoted is for a battery, I'd have understood and suggested buying and fitting one from a major online supplier for a lot less money. I thought there was a fault elsewhere with the ISG and you didn't know what the acronym meant. Indalo
  28. 1 like
  29. 1 like
    Well my 2013 plate because of the coolant lose issue had the bottom block replaced under warrenty. haveing said that I saw no evidence of any coolant lose at the time although main dealer said there was evidence of coolant in engine oil. I recieved new con rods and pistons at 30k so was kind of glad at the time.
  30. 1 like
    There is no timing belt on i40s - it's chain-drive and I can't recall any problems being reported in these pages. Beyond a coolant-loss problem affecting very few early models, not too much goes wrong with the i40, relative to other brands. Oh, early models had parking sensors which proved problematic but later models seemed ok. Indalo
  31. 1 like
    I wouldn't swear to it but from memory, all the cases I remember being reported were from 2011-2012. Having said that though, actual examples which suffered the water-loss fault were small but nevertheless, I'd prefer to go for a later model if in budget. Indalo
  32. 1 like
    Hi HobKnob I have a 2013 i40 (fantastic tourer) am now into my second rear camera. The weather proofing seems poor, and is prone to letting in damp, if this is the case, the camera is scrap! Another problem is the camera gets all the rain muck during motoring, so by the time you have to reverse, its 'looking at fog'. The i30 camera is protected behind the rear Hyundai logo badge which hinges up to reveal a nice clean camera!!
  33. 1 like
    Hi Colin I've had a i40 Premium Auto diesel from new for just over four years. Automatic gear box (DCT with paddles on the steering wheel) has presented no problems whatsoever. I only cover about eight thousand miles per year and I've been getting about 40mpg. I do have eighteen inch wheels but this has not caused any discomfort. Only two problems over that period: the first a partial headlight failure replaced under warranty without quibble notwithstanding it was quite possibly due to me driving into very deep water (unseen - from a river overflow) at night at speed. The second has just occurred; the rear view camera is intermittent and again without quibble the dealer is collecting and delivering my car today for a replacement to be fitted. Overall I remain extremely satisfied with the car as a means of getting from A to B reasonably quickly, very comfortably, and with a large amount of luggage etc. I do intend to retain it beyond the five year warranty period. Like Indalo I've had a motor home until recently when, having reached eighty years of age, I sold it. However, I did own caravans for about fourteen years before and only towed with an auto gear box. I always had a high power to weight ratio cars (2.5l + engines with good torque - BMW, Range Rover, Audi Allroad). The critical thing is to stick to the recommended maximum 85% caravan/car weight ratio. If your caravan/i40 combination meets this criteria then you should be OK. I have towed at 95% ratio but this was very demanding in crosswinds especially when high sided lorries are in close proximity. Some automatic gearboxes do tend to get hot when towing and require and extra cooler to be fitted. Certainly I never found this to be a problem but I never towed with an i40 auto. Hope this is helpful Colin. By the way, delighted to see that Indalo still features on this site even though he has purchased a Kia.
  34. 1 like
    Don't have the stop start abbs , You must of read me wrong in earlier reply. any other reading you welcome mate.
  35. 1 like
    If the car has just been serviced then the mpg would of been reset , then if it's left ticking over for whatever reason before you drove it then that could be why it was showing a low figure.
  36. 1 like
    I shall beat you to the change of wheels then Graham as I'm off to Yorkshire, wherever that is, tomorrow to collect my new Kia Sportswagon. I'm a bit averse these days to going anywhere north of Watford but car dealers here in the south-east don't seem to need to talk discount and I don't like to hear stuff like, 'We expect to sell at list price every one of these we can get Sir!' I think your choice of the Tucson is interesting Graham as, while I like the appearance and size of it, I was a bit underwhelmed by some of the rest of the spec. For example, having become accustomed to an EPB on the i40, I discovered that to have it on the Tucson requires the purchase of the top-of-the-range automatic model and it isn't even an option in any other model. The only ones that interested me were the 4WD models and the fuel consumption isn't much better than on the Santa Fe plus the tax is huge. If I were content to have 2WD, I'd ignore the model and stick with the i40 which is more spacious and a lot better on fuel and tax too, I think. Each to his own, of course and I can certainly understand that there comes a point when we all just feel like a change and that's where I'm at. As for the Warranty differences between Kia and Hyundai, for me, the Hyundai one is better with the 5-years RAC breakdown and recovery as opposed to just one year with Kia, although theirs includes European travel with the same rescue and recovery as in the UK. Evidently, they have a deal with the RAC whereby customers can purchase the continuation of that policy for something like £80 per annum - that doesn't sound like a great bargain to me but I haven't checked out the competition. I shall return here at some point and comment on how I find Kia's estate version of their large saloon compares with the sister i40 model. They seem to have constantly evolved the Optima while Hyundai has rather neglected the i40 range with only a mild facelift in 2014 the only change of any note since its inception in 2011. Anyway Graham, I hope the Tucson suits you and lives up to your expectations. Should we experience a bad winter this time round, I may well regret not purchasing 4WD, something I have intended to do for a long time. If your Tucson is 4WD, you will benefit in such a circumstance, indeed, even if it's only 2WD, the bigger, chunkier tyres and tread pattern will probably prove useful. Regards, Indalo
  37. 1 like
    Hi Gazwould, Given that the other Diesel engine in my stable is a FQ8 known as a 1.9dci from the land of onions frogs and snails I do realise your concerns. I took it for granted that you already knew the low ash grade you needed but as the others have stated the grade is more applicable to the location conditions of the vehicle and vehicle useage. You will find on this forum that many members are high mileage fleet drivers so there needs maybe different than yours and not all based in UK for that matter. However to answer your question fully from Hyundai UK position. Shell Helix Ultra Professional AG 5W-30 ACEA C3 Hope this helps with your concerns.
  38. 1 like
    I have had my i40 from new it is now 3 years old 27500 miles on the clock and overall i have been happy with it & no complaints.admit i had a couple of issues but they were taken care of without any fuss,the car has served me well I upgraded all the headlight bulbs to try and overcome the lighting problem they have but after a while you get use to the below par visibility..also changed the Tonka Toy twin horns as well . Its the end of an era for my saloon next week I take delivery of an ex demo Facelift Premium Tourer 1.7 CRDI 141 BLUE DRIVE (DCT) never had an auto before maybe its an age thing going auto ,the sat nav system is now powered by TOM-TOM ,as ever with the i40 it does come with a lot of standard features,It looks as if the head lights are different but its still got the Tonka toy twin horns so they will be changed.the 7 speed semi auto gear box should be fun look forward to using the different modes to their full use more so the sports setting. One thing I have learned is do not read and believe specific car forums about a car or you will never buy one no matter what make of car there will always be doom & gloom on it from people who nothing better to do. Silverhaired Racer
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    Yeah, I'll have a play and see if it changes anything. I nearly always hear it when I'm stationary (either just started / at lights), but of course it's going to be easier to hear in those circumstances. Little annoyed to be honest - there are a few little niggles like that which are obvious - Hyundai picked the car up from me for its service, so they can't have not noticed some of these things themselves - but did pay enough attention to point out that my brakes 'probably' need replacing and the pollen filter was 'getting a little dirty' Still, now I'm back up to date with the servicing, might be able to get them to have a proper look at some of them
  40. 1 like
    I also Was having a fuel issue, I removed the air flow sensor . Soaked in a pot of electrical cleaner that cost about £6 . Don't try to actually rub clean in any way, just soak. It worked for me. That was around the 100.000 mark. Done 118000 now.
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    Gareth, maybe you need to brush up on your reversing mate.
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    Just read through the entire thread, whilst I have had most of the listed faults, there is one for which there are only two very brief mentions, the rear suspension. Mine started with a banging noise from the rear, usually when going over medium to large holes. On investigating underneath, I found that the lower arm to hub fixing has two metal discs, roughly 60mm in diameter and around 10/12mm thick. Hyundai call these dampers, it was one of these that had detached and was banging around on the shaft. When booked in for repair under warranty, the dealer said that it was a recall (only if the customer complains) and they replaced both sides lower arms, bushes and fixings. Most of the rear suspension in fact.
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    Username and password are supplied to you by the seller. This is the correct link bellow. http://updata.carecartool.com/Custom/index.aspx Updates to software are released every now and then. Once you log in you can download any update for any paid up software.
  44. 1 like
    This is interesting. Thank you. You're a little ahead of me, mileage wise, I'm just at 112k. Over the last 2 or 3 tanks of fuel I've noticed a distinct drop in economy, from mid 50s to high 40s. In my checks this morning my oil is up over the max and I've needed to put 0.75 litres of water into the coolant. I've never had to add anything other than about a half litre of oil in total the entire time I've had the car. Will monitor this week and see what the position is next weekend... Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
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    All the best with that, Numbers! Indalo
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    Oh dear..... I should have known better! Well, it's now monday 9/5/16, and the diesel specialist didn't manage to get an early start on the car, but no problem, it wasn't actually booked in until today. I thought I would just phone them for an update around midday, as they had quoted a four-hour job.... (Silly, silly me!)........ The truth is,they haven't even started it yet, because (wait for it....) they don't have the unique tool to remove the injector pump, as they haven't changed one on an I40 before, which was not what I was led to believe. All is not lost however, as despite the tool agent not even listing the tool, the garage, being a diesel specialist, does a fair amount of work for the local Hyundai dealership, (I'm guessing as Hyundai don't know how to fix their own cars.) So....... they are in the process of trying to beg, steal, or borrow the genuine Hyundai tool from the Main Dealer. I was beginning to get palpitations, and called my own garage to ask if I should start panicking, or if I should have stuck with the main dealer in the first place, and they said it would be fine, and they were pretty sure the main dealer wouldn't refuse to loan the tool, as the diesel specialist I am using regularly pull Hyundai's chestnuts out of the fire when they get a difficult diesel to deal with. What a learning curve!!!! I mean, how the trade works!!! The plot still thickens.... As the car is off the road, and won't be back in one piece for at least another couple of days, I am now going to miss my annual council Plate Test, meaning I can't use the car for work until it passes a re-scheduled test, (which I can't book until I have the car back - Arrrrrrgh!!) and then may have to wait several days for a cancellation spot in their diary. Already been off work for a week, and no clear idea when I will be back earning, oh the joys of "so-called" self-employment! I have, in front of me, an application for shelf-stacker/general retail assistant at the local Coop convenience store. It is 80% complete. I could actually have a new job before I get my car back! Either way, wish me luck!! Take care all, and speak soon.... Numbers
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    It toggles the alarm's internal sensors on/off (ie, allows you to lock the car without something moving inside the car (dog, maybe) setting off the alarm.
  48. 1 like
    Greetings from Bulgaria ​Here is my 2013 1.7CRDI 136hp
  49. 1 like
    Just had another look. You have an online login area where it gives an option to down load from a list of purchased software. So seems as your paid up software is available
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    Hyundai i40 Saloon Sales Brochure January 2012