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Showing most liked content since 08/16/2016 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Omg Gareth can't believe they hide behind the warranty!!! The attraction of the warranty to the consumer is the confidence in the build quality of the product and NOT oh well it's cheap shit........... but we've replaced it with more cheap shit at no cost to you whilst your in warranty.
  2. 2 points
    In that case with the ideal motorway journeys it must be some other reason like even a thermostat in some situations preventing correct regeneration. Regeneration relies on too many sensors to perform at their optimum , such a flawed system . It belongs in the bin !
  3. 2 points
    Hi all had i40 tourer for around a year its a 2012 premium blue drive version as usual its been to the dealers a few times and as i type its there again .i will look to post a new thread in relevent spot,overall nice car but spoilt with inherant design flaws .cheers all, great site .sam
  4. 2 points
    Well, the car has been in to the garage, and come out with a new clutch housing and seal. All done under warranty. Can't believe the difference, like a new car now! The brakes are still an issue, but there is no way they will get done under warranty, so I am looking in to getting them done elsewhere. We're not getting charged for the courtesy car either I am glad to say. All is well again! Thanks all for the advice and so on, much appreciated, Garry
  5. 2 points
    Took the plunge on Saturday after an email from my dealer and bought a Moon Stone coloured Tucson SE Nav. Pre registered, 10 miles on the clock and a massive saving on list. Put my I40 in partex, shall miss that car as its grown on me
  6. 2 points
    Yes, I think there comes a point when main dealer servicing becomes disproportionately expensive, relative to the inherent remaining value of the car so I agree with your decision. Mine remains under warranty till March 2017 but after months of indecision, I have just this morning put down a deposit on another car, somewhat sadly, not a Hyundai but a Kia this time. I have visited the local Hyundai dealer several times recently and I'm afraid they don't have any deals on any of the few models that interest me, sufficient to grab my attention. This time, I am having the Optima Sportswagon GT Line-S, which is more a toyshop on wheels than a serious driver's car. It should suit me though as it's the DCT auto and as I drive pretty leisurely, that's all I need. On a test drive, it felt very smooth but a little lethargic compared to the i40 but it was probably in Eco mode and I didn't try switching it around to explore the other settings. It seemed to ride a bit better than the i40 and it feels the way a new i40 should be but sadly isn't. Initially, I couldn't get a penny discount from any of the dealers I visited - 'It's a new model sir and we expect to sell every one we can get' - even 'Autoebid' failed to get any discount from their extensive list of contacts! Fortunately, 'Carwow' came up trumps in the end and I'm getting the car for 3K under list in round numbers. That eases my mind quite a bit as I think the list price is well over the top for that model and puts it into some premium territory. £30 VED and fuel consumption not substantially different to my i40 are major attractions for me plus the extensive safety kit and driver aids which help insurance premiums. The downside is that it comes only with an inflation kit, rather than a spare wheel, like many other cars these days. I did consider buying another wheel with tyre plus the tools but at £350, but decided to forego it, particularly as it cannot go into the wheel well which houses the HK subwoofer. Besides, by the time one pays to replenish the gunge used in re-inflating a tyre, (if successful) then paying for a new tyre because tyrefitters won't repair a gunged one, or two tyres if there is a need to ensure similar tread depth on both sides of the axle, the economics don't really stack up. The worst scenario is recovery by the RAC and a new tyre or two. Had there been room for the spare wheel in the underfloor compartment, I might well have bitten the bullet and paid the money. Anyway, as things stand, I don't expect to take delivery till Mid-November and I just hope it doesn't take longer than that - you know what it's like when you set your heart on something! As for the i40, £9450 part-ex really swung it for me as that's considerably more than other dealers were offering. They won't lose money on it as it'll sell for 10K easily with FSH, one owner and 29500 miles on it. All in all, I can't knock the i40 overall. Sure, the fuel figures are way off the advertised numbers and ride and handling fall a bit short of the best but reliability has been good. If Hyundai had upgraded the i40 in the way and to the level that Kia have managed with the Optima, I'd probably have remained with the brand. I have opted for the pre-paid servicing package of 5 services/5years for £609 (transferable) which seems very reasonable to me as the car still has 2-years warranty on the major components after the 5th service so should be easily sellable at that point. Whether I actually keep it that long is difficult to say but I baulked at the tax and fuel consumption of the SUV-type vehicles which have become so popular in recent times. Most of them don't have as much luggage space as an i40 Tourer/Kia Sportswagon too! Curiously, the Hyundai Tucson actually comes with a full-size alloy spare wheel which is something of a novelty these days. I was very tempted by the pre-reg, discounted, top-of-the-range auto model offered by my local dealer but I rejected the idea on the basis of high, on-going costs. Time will tell if I have made the right choice but a seriously bad winter could have me cursing myself for not choosing a 4WD vehicle this time round which was my plan at the outset....and the time before....and the time before that! Indalo
  7. 2 points
    I have an i40 premium saloon and if i let the steering wheel go while i am driving straight it pulls to the left , i have had the tracking done 3 times and a full wheel alignment and it still does it , has anyone else experienced this problem ? I had the steering wheel changed under warranty , could this be causing the problem ?
  8. 1 point
    Incorrectly fitted , rush job.
  9. 1 point
    As Gaz has pointed out. Check out my thread. My efforts with the dealer are ongoing, but I think the issue is resolved. It's a DPF issue. They need to engage Hyundai Technical who will talk them through some diagnostic tests. No error codes at any point and the DPF reports it's regenerating fine, but isn't. Get it sorted asap and drive it as little as possible. I've had a whole new engine because of this, luckily under warranty...
  10. 1 point
    Alternator is fine mate , just the pikey fuse repair , repaired again a little more robust until they turn up. That part number is probably wrong as Google and FleaBay suggest it's a single 150A fuse .
  11. 1 point
    Car broke down yesterday suspected alternator , and found the alternator fuse has been pikey mended with wire and solder and had broke . Other 150A fuse is for the starter motor . Hyundai are confused.com . Anyone replaced this two fuse unit ?
  12. 1 point
    Well there it is folks , it's a side arangement . So wether the side oil cooler drains into the vertical oil filter housing remains to be seen next summer when we service it for a fraction of the price .
  13. 1 point
    Whenever my dealer serviced mine , On every occasion the oil level would be above the mark. wether they just have a certain amount they just plonk in you'll never know. iv always found that the oil turns black almost immediately tbh. iv just ordered oil & filter today to do at the weekend. I do it 10000 miles religiously. I'll take note of how of how long it takes the oil to turn .
  14. 1 point
    Modern diesels do especially if they have an inaccessible oil cooler that could contain 500 ml of used black oil containing diesel . Egr with it's extra soot production concequense . On my VW I have the pleasure of a disabled egr and the accessible oil cooler directly below the oil filter housing , sucked out with an oil extractor and 6 month oil changes the fresh oil stays remarkebly clean for months .
  15. 1 point
    That's understandable , the wrong type of rain !
  16. 1 point
    I also had this problem, less than a dribble coming from washer jets but can hear motor working. Got a mechanic to drain the washer tank and clean out crap blocking the filter to the washer jets and refilled. Had to remove drivers side wheel and inner arch to access the tank. All working now. Hope this helps
  17. 1 point
    Well of the 3 5W30 C3's they're all 69 centiStokes at 40 Celsius . If it goes quiet without info , calls continued not to be returned , I find walking into the dealership naked usually gets their attention .
  18. 1 point
    Confirmed , Hyundia and Kia spend 5 minutes designing a car . Sales first , design better later after the public have kindly pointed out the issues.
  19. 1 point
    A friend has just been round the block like yourself but with Kia, same engine as I've looked . kia done this and that , until finally finding the fault. DPF replacement. His problem started with loss of power as he came off the moterway. good luck mate.
  20. 1 point
    Ooo yeah , in need some Tipex , you Sir are a scuffler and in need of some fetching driving slippers
  21. 1 point
    Surely it's a simple matter for a Hyundai dealer to re-programme your spare key? If that fixes it, it's probably worth a small charge. Having said that, it might be worth speaking to an auto electrician as I had a problem with the alarm system on my motorhome which I couldn't fix and the guy replaced the whole system with an up-to-date version of the same model for not a lot of money. Dedicated auto-electricians are pretty clued up on all these new-fangled things on cars that work by magic! Tom
  22. 1 point
    There has been a lot of discussion about the software/firmware update available for Hyundai media systems spread across a few threads, I have preformed the update on my own i40 and a friends ix35 and I am responding to the request for a step by step guide. If the mods feel it appropriate it might be useful as a sticky. 1. Go to http://www.navigation.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/Navteq-HyundaiEMEA-Site and select your car from the drop down boxes on the left. 2. This will take you to the update page for your vehicle. Scroll down the page and in the bottom left you will see a link for the software/firmware update. Click on it. 3. The instructions will appear in front of you along with the download link. You must ensure that your current software is 5.1.3 in order to proceed, if it is a version lower than that then you need to get your Hyundai dealer to get to at least 5.1.3. To check your current version press and hold the settings button on the media system for at least 5 secs, the display will then show current versions. 4. If you have defined that you are suitable for an update then click on the download link and when prompted save it to your PC. Ensure that you have an empty USB thumb drive at least 1GB in size to put the file on. 5. Unzip the contents of the downloaded file directly to the root directory of the thumb drive. 6. Start up the engine of your Hyundai and insert the thumb drive into the USB port. It will read and automatically start the program. Follow the instructions on the display of your Hyundai screen. 7. The initial installation of files is reasonably quick, then it will go I to decompression of a 1.42Gb file which takes a good 15 minutes, this is helped though by the fact that at least the radio still works giving you something to listen to whilst the install proceeds! After decompression another section of install takes place which again is reasonably quick. AT NO POINT IN THE INSTALL PROCESS SHOULD YOU SWITCH OFF THE ENGINE OR REMOVE THE USB DRIVE!!! 8. The media system will then restart, so the screen will go black and then the Hyundai logo will re-appear, the system though will go back not the installation procedure because you will still have the thumb drive inserted in the USB port. The same update screen you will have seen previously will appear, but the current version and update version will be the same number, indicating that the update process has worked. 9. Press CANCEL on the touchscreen and you will be returned to the media screen you were previously on, so radio, bluetooth or GPS. By pressing the settings button then pressing TRAFFIC on the touchscreen you should now see that TMC is available, give the system time to get the latest traffic data through the FM antenna.
  23. 1 point
    "Due to the engine issue that increases the risk of a crash, according to safety regulators in those respective countries." "South Korea's transport ministry said on Friday metal debris in crankshafts could cause engine damage, leading to possible loss of motive power." This isn't a i40 problem and only a 2.0 and 2.4L petrol engine issue . They should be recalling the junk 1.7 crdi for the porous cylinder liners !
  24. 1 point
    Well there's a number of company's online that you can send a sample of your oil to. that will tell you percentage of fuel if any is in your oil as well as other data.
  25. 1 point
    Excellent !
  26. 1 point
    If you continue to experience this problem, I'm afraid that, unless you are well-versed in automotive electronics and have access to a full suite of electronic test instruments, this kind of work is best left to a Hyundai dealer. If you are lucky and the car is within the warranty period, it could be covered. Best of luck! Indalo
  27. 1 point
    Hey guys I'm new to the forum. I bought a 62 plate ix35 just over a year ago from Arnold Clark. its just a 1.6 petrol so not much power but enough for what i need and i would of thought that it will be the same method on the different trim models. So the time has come that i needed to have a tow bar as my old work horse Pajero was no longer with us. I'm not towing heavy things anymore just a small trailer with the motor bike on ect. Anyway so the time has come and to order and fit one. i hunted online and couldn't find much about them and any guides or how too's. Its pretty straight forward and you only need a few basic tools to do the job. I called the dealer i got the car from just out of interest to see how much it would cost to have one fitted they quoted £450 for a fixed and £600+ for a detachable one. I was worried that the tow ball would effect the reversing sensors so i thought id need to go for a detachable one but at that price their was no way i was going to pay that. I risked it and went for a fixed one as i can turn the sensors off from inside the car turns out the fixed one doesn't effect the operation of then sensors at all. The job itself us super easy. Only thing i was nervous about was the wiring side like splicing into the wiring loom. So i started looking at vehicle specific wiring looms for the tow bar electrics. But at just under £200 that was also a no go. Now it would be a different story had i been needing a 13 pin trailer socket with the ability of trailer stability function but i don't. If you haven't done this before I would recommend allowing a day to carry out the work so that you are not stressed and rushing. I fitted the tow bar in a evening after work but had to stop as it got dark and then did the wiring the following day which took me 3 hours taking my time. So my reason for this post is to hopefully help people in the future do it them self's and not have to pay dealer prices. Theirs not much on the net about this so hopefully somebody finds this useful. First off id like to say you do this entirely at your own risk. Cause any damage to your car its not my fault I have listed what wires go to what plugs this is what it was on my car i guess their is a chance the same car could be different i doubt it but double check each wire it only takes 2 secs and eliminates the risk of frying your electrics or blowing a fuse. I bought a Witter tow bar off ebay for £130 + postage. It came with the the 7 pin plug and the cable to take it up into the car. I also had to buy a bypass relay for £16 that came with the wires to splice into the loom and all the scotch locks, fuse ect. So the tow bar arrived in a big box a few days later their is all the bits and bobs and some basic instructions. When fitting the tow bar leave all bolts loose until everything is fitted and then tighten and torque up!!! So to start they recommend you drop the exhaust back box off its hangers. You don't need to bother with doing this. the tow bar squeezes up just fine without it although their is 3 small Phillips head screws holding the bottom of the bumper in i removed them to allow flex of the plastic bumper for tightening the bolts. Their is 2 brackets that you bolt into the chassis legs with 4 bolts. The chassis legs are pre threaded so the bolts just go straight in. The mount on the left hand side went in no bother for me but the one on the right was a total pig. Because Hyundai pre thread them but don't cap them they just rust in the threads i had to use a tap and dye set to clean the threads up a little but you could use a sacrificial bolt to try clean them up. Now for this particular kit they bolt in with M10 x 30 x 1.25 , Lock washers and O.D flat washers and bolts torqued to 52Nm. Once the brackets are fitted you have to slot the bar up in between the brackets and bolt it up with the M12 x 35 x 1.75 with lock nut washers and 25mm O.D flat washers and then torqued to 80Nm Now their is the neck to fit to fit it is held in place with two packer plates and 2 M12 x 100 x 1.75 bolts and Nyloc nuts torqued to 80Nm. Now fit the plate and the tow ball to the neck with the M16 x 50 x 2.0 and lock washers and nut. and Torque to 200Nm. what i have written their is what the instructions recommended but i actually fitted the tow bar ball and neck to the tow bar before fitting the bar to the brackets. That's the easy bit done. Now this bit requires a little bit of thought and much easier with 2 people. Most of all the work is done on the left hand side of the boot. I had read that their is a grey plug that you can take all the feeds from but i couldn't see anything so i took it from the rear light cluster plugs. wrap the trailer plug cable round the tow bar once or twice and route it to the left hand side of the vehicle. Open the boot and remove the floor and spare wheel ect. their is a plastic trim where the boot catch is, to remove this their is 3 Phillips head screws that are on poppers you may need a trim leaver to lever them out or just pull them out, now pull that plastic trim off its on poppers so it will pop off, now on the left hand side their is two small Phillips screws at the bottom of the left hand trim panel remove them and pull out the trim. same again its on poppers but it will come free just pull it. you wont get the whole trim off because of the rear seat but fold it forward and you'll be able to pull it out far enough to get access. Their is 12v socket at trim light disconnect them to allow a little extra movement. Remove the rear left light with the two Phillips head screws that hold it in place and disconnect the plug and lay to one side. Push out the rubber gromit and pull the cable into the boot where you can work on it. Now comes the bit i wasn't looking forward to finding what wire does what. Just take your time. i'm about to list what wires did what on my car and the particular bypass relay i had so hopefully it will help you but i strongly suggest that you check each wire yourself before you get hacking away at wires. You need to push the black tow bar cable wire up the the gromit in the boot floor on the left hand side of the boot. Now strip back a little of the outer plastic protection to revel the different coloured wires. Put the correct wires into the correct plugs on the bypass relay plug 1 - Yellow 2 - Blue 3 - isn't plugged int the relay as it is a earth 4 - Green 5 - Brown 6 - Red 7 - Black Now that is the tow bar electrics connected to the bypass relay done. Easy right? Now you have to figure out when plug does what on the light cluster plug. Go switch on the hazard light and plug your volt meter or test light into the end of the plug to work out what cable does what. once you have found what cable does does the hazards/indicator just a case of matching them with the bypass relay and connecting them with the either the scotch locks or soldering them. On the left hand side of the car - Bypass relay - Car wirirng loom wire Yellow - White Red - Green & Black Black - Green On the right hand side of the car - Bypass relay - Car wirirng loom wire Green - Pink Brown - Black & Brown You will need to take take the right hand boot trim off and the light cluster out they are taken out exactly the same as the left hand side. Work out what cable does the indicator and what does their tail light and splice into the wires and run them across the boot neatly to the other side and connect into the bypass relay. The bypass relay needs a power supply as its a type of switch so connect the two earth cables that come out of the trailer electrics cable and the bypass relay to a length of wire and earth it onto the car somewhere suitable. i used one of the bolts that hold the top half of the trim on on the left hand side. splice into the positive cable to the 12v socket in your boot on the left hand side on my car its the blue wire and then connect into the positive feed into the bypass relay and your DONE! well close enough. Its just a case of using a bit of double sided tape like number pad fixing tape to fix that relay to the side of the car. Tidy up any wires and put everything back together in the reverse order of how you took it all apart. Then once all that's done plug in your trailer or trailer board or volt meter and try it out see if its all working. You will probably find that once their is a trailer connected or light bar that the relay has a beeping tone when indicating this is just to let you know their working. once disconnected it wont make any noise. When you are splicing into the cars loom splice into a bit of cable that sits inside the car where it is dry and away from the elements it helps to reduce the risk of any connections failing. Now you are finally done and get Towing! I hope that this is of use to somebody. I know it would have been very useful to me as i would have been able to relax a lot more when doing it.
  28. 1 point
    Lucky you've still got warranty. I can see alot of these Kia and Hyundai 1.7 crdi engines financially writing off the vehicle out of warranty . What poo poo they are....
  29. 1 point
    If it's the same problem I had with my first i40T then you might be in for a wee bit of trouble! Having driven the car for 18 months or so without any radio issues, the reception just went, it would display "No Stations Available" on the screen. The garage had trouble finding the cause as in that area there was some reception and the "Well it works OK here" response was given a few times. It was only when I started making quite a fuss about it that the mechanic took the car home for the weekend and confirmed the radio was indeed no good! I think they ended up replacing the antennae wiring which solved it and from that point on it was fine. If you are out of warranty and funding the repair yourself be warned that my garage replaced the head unit (no effect) also the antennae itself (no effect) and these of course you would have to pay for. Wish you well with it.
  30. 1 point
    We've had our i40 Tourer Style (2012 model), since May 2013. Although we really like this car, we've had numerous issues with the vehicle - most of which have been rectified under the 5 year warranty (thank God!)... e.g. failed rear parking sensors, fuel filter issues, various internal electrical faults. However, today we learnt that after 3 years ownership that the recent loss of coolant is caused as a result of a cracked engine block and our dealership are applying to Hyundai UK for a replacement engine! Dealership state that many of the 2012 engines, built in India, are being found to have this problem. The coolant was replaced as part of the 60k service a few months ago. Two weeks ago the i40 went into 'limp home' mode when the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve) became defective, meaning the car had to be towed to the dealership. During the repairs, the coolant was found to be very low with no visible sign of any leaks. Coolant topped up and we were asked to return after a further 500-1000 miles, which we did today. Coolant levels have substantially dropped again and after a pressure test today they've confirmed a diagnosis today which reveals the dealership suspects the engine block is fractured and needs to be replaced. They are requesting a new block from Hyundai. This work will cost in excess of £5000 and take a weeks labour and inconvenience to us, but thankfully this is covered under the 5 year warranty. This is shocking news, but more essentially questions our confidence in the whole Hyundai brand. We'd love to get a new i40 one day, but after a whole catalogue of defects we've had rectified over the last 3 years and now this major engine defect - why should we? Also, how long has this engine block been defective? What impact has this had on the life of the car and it's efficiency and performance while we've owned it. We feel very let down by Hyundai, despite the faults being repaired under the warranty. The inconvenience has been irritating to say the least. A new engine we are told will not receive a new five year warranty and our 5 year standard warranty will still expire in March 2017.​ Hyundai are clearly aware of the many i40's that are being returned with this major defect in it's replacement engine blocks, so why haven't they informed owners and recalled these specific models at the very least for checks to be made? I'm very, very keen to learn about other i40 owners who have experienced similar problems and what response they've had from Hyundai UK if any. Rather than spending £5000 on replacing my four year old engine - will Hyundai give me £5000 off a new i40 in an attempt to reward my loyalty to their brand???
  31. 1 point
    The rear o/s disc is definitely scored and I'd say in need of replacement. I've contacted my local garage and he has all the up to date diagnostic gubbens required for the job. Just need to get the price from him now for the replacement.
  32. 1 point
    Garry, 'Westkent' is one of the highest mile-eaters in the forum so his comments are almost certainly relevant as to brake life expectancy. On the basis of what you told us about the dealer, I would be inclined to try either another main dealer or any well-recommended private garage business. Rear discs should easily manage double the mileage your car has covered before needing replacement As for the clutch, it would require some really serious abuse to wear it out at 36,000 miles and I doubt anyone with a car like the i40 would be likely to treat it so badly in the first three years to cause clutch damage. It is more likely to be a faulty component than wear and tear although that may have occurred as collateral damage, as it were. My only suggestion is that you get in touch with Hyundai UK and see what they have to say about what you have been told by the dealer. I know Hyundai did replace a fair few clutches in early cars but when they stopped building cars with 'dodgy' clutches, I couldn't say Best of luck with that. Indalo
  33. 1 point
    I think I must have misunderstood? If the OP had just said the price quoted is for a battery, I'd have understood and suggested buying and fitting one from a major online supplier for a lot less money. I thought there was a fault elsewhere with the ISG and you didn't know what the acronym meant. Indalo
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Well I've just done the decoder ( coolant loss with no overheating and short engine replacement ) and the 18.1.12 built car ( 62 plate ) also has the engine factory as 084 Ulsan ( Korea ). So is this dispelling the myth of an Indian factory being responsible ?
  36. 1 point
    Is it from a main dealer ? If so presumably it's sold as an approved used , then you have the warrenty till its 5 yrs. i spend 13 hrs a day in mine and its as comfortable as they come. If it ticks your boxes !!!!
  37. 1 point
    Hi HobKnob I have a 2013 i40 (fantastic tourer) am now into my second rear camera. The weather proofing seems poor, and is prone to letting in damp, if this is the case, the camera is scrap! Another problem is the camera gets all the rain muck during motoring, so by the time you have to reverse, its 'looking at fog'. The i30 camera is protected behind the rear Hyundai logo badge which hinges up to reveal a nice clean camera!!
  38. 1 point
    My mistake Colin - it was in the thread title which I didn't notice Anyway, being a motorhomer rather than a caravanner, I couldn't say how well or otherwise the i40 performs in that role. If I were to take a guess based on previous experience of mine loaded to the gunnels doing a house removal with lots of heavy stuff, I'd think it would pull a medium-sized caravan with ease. I don't know which gearbox is in the model from 2011 - regular, old-fashioned slush box or one of these new-fangled DCT transmissions like I have in my Kia. If it's the latter, I think it's a fabulous gearbox to use and makes for a very pleasant drive. If 'Ex-aviator' happens to tune in, he is a long-term auto user and has plenty of motoring experience so I'm sure he could appraise you much better than me of the model's talents. Although I can't remember whether or not I have ever used it, there is a message facility on the site so you could try messaging him and asking for his thoughts. As for the sports mode you mention, with that selected on my car, the gearbox hangs on to each gear a bit longer than normal - the downside being poorer economy. To balance that, mine has an eco setting too which is all about leisurely driving with a view to maximising fuel economy. The normal setting betwixt the two suits me just fine. Sorry I can't be of any more assistance but if you proceed with the purchase, I think you'll like it. Do try Ex-aviator; I'm sure he won't mind being asked for his thoughts on your prospective purchase. Indalo
  39. 1 point
    Hi Gareth, Ain't heard from you for a while!! Yeah I have had my dealer play exemption card do to limited warranty items as written in the T&C. The service manger seamed to enjoy pointing out the small print. However I always get a report or receipt even if zero charge for such events. Dealer refused my last warranty claim but Hyundai authorised the work to be done under warranty when I challenged the decision due to the records I was able to produce as it is then for them to prove it wasn't an inherent fault. I have 18 months until mine is 5 so I've decided I'm going to keep until then but unlike you I still need a load lugger so hopefully something will grab my attention before then
  40. 1 point
    I have had my i40 from new it is now 3 years old 27500 miles on the clock and overall i have been happy with it & no complaints.admit i had a couple of issues but they were taken care of without any fuss,the car has served me well I upgraded all the headlight bulbs to try and overcome the lighting problem they have but after a while you get use to the below par visibility..also changed the Tonka Toy twin horns as well . Its the end of an era for my saloon next week I take delivery of an ex demo Facelift Premium Tourer 1.7 CRDI 141 BLUE DRIVE (DCT) never had an auto before maybe its an age thing going auto ,the sat nav system is now powered by TOM-TOM ,as ever with the i40 it does come with a lot of standard features,It looks as if the head lights are different but its still got the Tonka toy twin horns so they will be changed.the 7 speed semi auto gear box should be fun look forward to using the different modes to their full use more so the sports setting. One thing I have learned is do not read and believe specific car forums about a car or you will never buy one no matter what make of car there will always be doom & gloom on it from people who nothing better to do. Silverhaired Racer
  41. 1 point
    If you wish to avoid purchasing the grossly expensive rear wiper blade from your friendly Hyundai dealer, (north of £20!) be aware that the blade's frame can be dismantled so that a new metal-backed rubber can be inserted. Some independent motor factors still stock lengths of that product and it's as cheap as chips if you can locate it. If you can get hold of it and want to tackle the job, here's how it's done: 1) Hold the centre section of the frame in one hand then, with the other hand, bend one of the articulated end pieces downwards in the same direction as the curve in the frame. It will un-click from its retaining lugs and can then be slid off out of the way. 2) Remove the metal-backed rubber in the same direction. 3) Insert the new piece of metal-backed rubber after cutting to length. 4) Re-fit the articulated end-piece by positioning it then squeezing it gently with your fingers till it clicks back into place. Job done! NB Do not attempt to bend back the metal lugs at either end of the frame assembly to release the rubber as it's made from a cast alloy-type material and will almost certainly snap off. Indalo
  42. 1 point
    Check post #27 of this thread out: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/i40-forum/160993-i40-wagon-pulling-left-intermittently.html There is a theory that the castor and camber angles may be out from the factory. These I believe are not adjustable so bespoke pieces need to be fabricated to put them right.
  43. 1 point
    Yes, I have always had the same issue I too have had the steering wheel replaced, but pretty sure it was the same before that. Tried flagging it with Hyundai, but kept getting fobbed off with 'it's the tracking', so given up asking them now.
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    Hi DC 1) Remove key from fob 2) Using the flat tip of the key, place it firmly in the little gap between the two lugs about 3mm along from the rectangular hole into which the key fits. 3) Gently but firmly twist the key till you slightly prise apart the two halves of the case at the top. Then take a flat bladed screwdriver and very carefully open the gap around the more curved side of the fob until you have the two parts loosened but still in position. 4) Now, before you carefully remove one half from the other, the little key release button has a tiny spring behind it which will be lost if you are careless here so look out for that. 5) Once you have accomplished the separation, the battery compartment is self-evident but prise out the battery from the side without the little metal spring and don't lose that part. 6) The battery is one of the CR2032 type which are readily available in plenty of cheap shops. I'd advise paying a little extra for one with a name as some of the look-alike ones from China are really not very good. A card of assorted batteries from the 99p shop may seem like a bargain but I'd rather pay the price of a pint for a single CR2032 from any of the well-known brands as it's still a cheap item and will probably last 3 years easily. Re-assembly is, of course, a reversal of the strip-down and ends with a satisfying click when the case snaps together under gentle pressure. If you haven't already modified your key fob so the little release button sits flush with the surrounding case material, this would be a good opportunity to do it. I reckon the best way is to use a Dremel-type tool with a small cutting disc or alternatively, a grinding wheel to remove some of the length from the button. You can safely take it right down till it's flush and then the key and fob will no longer come apart accidentally. The tip of a pen or a pin will be required to press the button after that. Indalo
  45. 1 point
    Here is the GDS diagram, in case you are having trouble getting the bumper off. Thanks, no1spaceman. i40 bumper.pdf
  46. 1 point
    Well I have now had this i40 close to 5 months and 6000 miles. The issues so far have been this: 1. Faulty front parking sensor. 2. Scratched glass on front drivers side window. 3. Condensation and 3 inches of water in the rear drivers side light cluster. 4. Condensation in the drivers side indicator lens mounted on wing mirror. 5. Luggage net not retracting. 6. Broken silver clips in the boot. 7. Stone chip on front of boot now beginning to rust. 8. Leather on steering wheel peeling off. The sensors have been fixed as has the drivers side window. The light cluster and the indicator lens have been replaced. The luggage net has been replaced. Absolutely no problems at all with the dealer. I have had the steering wheel photographed in the last week and this problem will be dealt with under warranty. I am just waiting for the part. Once the part arrives and I have a date to have it replaced I will bring the rust and the broken clips to their attention. Given the small problems I have had with this vehicle you would think that I would be unhappy with the vehicle but not at all. It is still a wonderful car to drive and I get a real enjoyment from it. I am currently averaging 64mpg with 73mpg on long runs. The problems I have had have been dealt with speedily and professionally by the dealer. Still no regrets at all with the purchase of this vehicle. M...
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    Hyundai i40 Saloon Sales Brochure January 2012
  50. 1 point
    Just picked up a new Hyundai ix35? Then let us know, and post a photo