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Showing most liked content since 01/16/2012 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    I know we all moan on here about the i40's niggles (myself included) but recent events have shown me how good a car it is. A few weeks ago while driving home from work I found myself in a situation on a motorway where I had the option of being hit from behind from a speeding lorry or side swipe the van next to me to get out of its way. Of course i went for the side swipe and of course the lorry got away scot free and stopped where my car was previously. Anyway the result was that both my passenger side doors were damaged, the wing mirror hanging off and the side skirt ripped off. Drove the car home and contacted the Hyundai accident care that arranged for my car to go to one otheir approved garages and sorted all the stuff with my insurance company. So the garage picked up my i40 and left me with a bright blue Chervrolet Spark. Initialy I was not bothered and the car seemed OK for a small car, but after nearly 2 weeks of driving it to work and a thousand miles extra on the clock I was glad to see the back of the underpowered excuse for a car. I could not help but smile when I slipped back behind the wheel of my i40 and now appreciate the comfort, refinement and power that the car has. So just remember people that despite its little niggles, there are worse cars out there that I fail to understand why anyone would part with their hard earned cash for.
  2. 5 points
    There has been a lot of discussion about the software/firmware update available for Hyundai media systems spread across a few threads, I have preformed the update on my own i40 and a friends ix35 and I am responding to the request for a step by step guide. If the mods feel it appropriate it might be useful as a sticky. 1. Go to http://www.navigation.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/Navteq-HyundaiEMEA-Site and select your car from the drop down boxes on the left. 2. This will take you to the update page for your vehicle. Scroll down the page and in the bottom left you will see a link for the software/firmware update. Click on it. 3. The instructions will appear in front of you along with the download link. You must ensure that your current software is 5.1.3 in order to proceed, if it is a version lower than that then you need to get your Hyundai dealer to get to at least 5.1.3. To check your current version press and hold the settings button on the media system for at least 5 secs, the display will then show current versions. 4. If you have defined that you are suitable for an update then click on the download link and when prompted save it to your PC. Ensure that you have an empty USB thumb drive at least 1GB in size to put the file on. 5. Unzip the contents of the downloaded file directly to the root directory of the thumb drive. 6. Start up the engine of your Hyundai and insert the thumb drive into the USB port. It will read and automatically start the program. Follow the instructions on the display of your Hyundai screen. 7. The initial installation of files is reasonably quick, then it will go I to decompression of a 1.42Gb file which takes a good 15 minutes, this is helped though by the fact that at least the radio still works giving you something to listen to whilst the install proceeds! After decompression another section of install takes place which again is reasonably quick. AT NO POINT IN THE INSTALL PROCESS SHOULD YOU SWITCH OFF THE ENGINE OR REMOVE THE USB DRIVE!!! 8. The media system will then restart, so the screen will go black and then the Hyundai logo will re-appear, the system though will go back not the installation procedure because you will still have the thumb drive inserted in the USB port. The same update screen you will have seen previously will appear, but the current version and update version will be the same number, indicating that the update process has worked. 9. Press CANCEL on the touchscreen and you will be returned to the media screen you were previously on, so radio, bluetooth or GPS. By pressing the settings button then pressing TRAFFIC on the touchscreen you should now see that TMC is available, give the system time to get the latest traffic data through the FM antenna.
  3. 5 points
    My i40 Blue drive has done 6,000 miles, and twice recently it has behaved differently to usual. Every Sunday I visit my mother 8 miles across Bristol, but not much traffic, and I usually set up the mpg check whist travelling. The rest of my driving at this time of year is quite short runs. Today, and once previously, the average mpg has reduced significantly from the high 40's down to low 30's over a distance of about 4 miles. This must mean that the actual fuel consumption must be much higher to reduce the average so much. Yet on the return journey the ave mpg is back up to high 40's/low 50's. The other thing that happens is that the Idling Stop/Go stops working. I'm sure the two things are linked, and I wondered about DPF regeneration. (Unlike many forum members, my ISG is great, it works virtually all times I stop, unless the weather is very cold) Does anyone know how frequently this happens with an i40, and would my experience be indicative of this happening. Looking at other forums, I was not aware of the engine sounding noisier, or the idling speed being higher than the 800 that it usually is. This weekend we are going to Cornwall (100+ miles each way), so the engine should get reasonably warm, even though I don't drive it the way diesels are supposed to be driven. Any info would be welcome
  4. 4 points
    Hello all, today I picked up my brand spanking new (with 40 miles on the clock) Hyundai i40 Saloon blue drive, I tried the Intellegent Stop / Start Go system (ISG?), but it does not work. After using the car for say 25 mile journey, I get to a set of traffic lights and do the motions but a msg flashes up on dash saying "Stop Start deactivated" or soemthing similar. I have an amber light displaying on the button beside the brightness controls. After speaking with the dealer and service department they said the car has to "adapt" to your driving style. Give it some time and will work....? A load of waffle me thinks..... Any ideas of what to try? Did anyone else find this issue with a new car? Cheers! Red!
  5. 4 points
    Greetings Everyone , I have had the misfortune of heat seizing my IX35 - 2013 (diesel) Motor, Has anyone ever had any experience of redoing the motor and if so any comments as to their experience - good or bad warm regards Ian
  6. 4 points
    My 5 week old i40 Tourer is back in the garage. When I first drove the car at speeds over 60mph, I experienced a noticeable vibration in the steering wheel at speeds between 60 to 65mph, fading out above and below. It also happened on braking from speeds higher than about 40mph. They have apparently found that the discs are slightly distorted being just outside of the tolerances. They are going to skim the front discs first and reassess moving onto the rear discs if necessary. Has anyone else experienced this?
  7. 4 points
    Created by Hyundai UK in response to people not being aware how to use UK postcode search. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B13mq_7waUACX1pTSmFjLXU3RVk
  8. 4 points
  9. 4 points
    Link: Hyundai Matrix Portal on HyundaiWiki.co.uk At the Hyundai Matrix Portal you'll find links to handy information, how-to's, guides etc. If you have anything you wish to submit, please either reply to this post, or add it directly to the HyundaiWiki, it runs the same software as the famous Wikipedia.
  10. 3 points
    Seems to be a lot of strange things going wrong and being replaced under warranty. Let's get a list going recording these things so other members know to keep an eye on. So, what have you had go wrong, and what was replaced under warranty to rectify the issue?
  11. 3 points
    Quick follow up on this - just off the 'phone to the dealership and it is the clutch and flywheel but to my great surprise and very considerable relief they have ordered the parts and will fix it under warranty - I think this deserves a mention as I think they have gone well above and beyond here and I give them full marks for it, and courteously done too! Restored a lot of faith in the car and the brand, first class, good for them. Matt
  12. 3 points
    If you wish to avoid purchasing the grossly expensive rear wiper blade from your friendly Hyundai dealer, (north of £20!) be aware that the blade's frame can be dismantled so that a new metal-backed rubber can be inserted. Some independent motor factors still stock lengths of that product and it's as cheap as chips if you can locate it. If you can get hold of it and want to tackle the job, here's how it's done: 1) Hold the centre section of the frame in one hand then, with the other hand, bend one of the articulated end pieces downwards in the same direction as the curve in the frame. It will un-click from its retaining lugs and can then be slid off out of the way. 2) Remove the metal-backed rubber in the same direction. 3) Insert the new piece of metal-backed rubber after cutting to length. 4) Re-fit the articulated end-piece by positioning it then squeezing it gently with your fingers till it clicks back into place. Job done! NB Do not attempt to bend back the metal lugs at either end of the frame assembly to release the rubber as it's made from a cast alloy-type material and will almost certainly snap off. Indalo
  13. 3 points
    I have an i40 premium saloon and if i let the steering wheel go while i am driving straight it pulls to the left , i have had the tracking done 3 times and a full wheel alignment and it still does it , has anyone else experienced this problem ? I had the steering wheel changed under warranty , could this be causing the problem ?
  14. 3 points
    Perhaps a wee bit of balance on Indalo's post. For many people their next car WILL always be the greatest, bestest thing they have ever owned, the nature of human beings is that we want to better ourselves over time and our homes and cars tend to be the way that we want to show how well we are doing. Unfortunately it would appear that the diesel i40 does indeed have an issue with the clutch assembly which many have encountered. I have been "lucky" enough to have bought the petrol i40, and over two years of ownership have had no reliability issues, find the car comfortable, soaks up the bumps well, has a good level of equipment which again has not failed, reasonable urban consumption and good extra urban consumption. This is my third of the current generation of Hyundai's having had an i30, ix20 and i40. Of them the pick of the bunch was the i30, the i40 next and the ix20 trailing along. After a decade of owning Subaru Imprezas, i can only say that the Hyundai range (even the ix20) match whatever Subaru provided at the time. I would go back to an i30 happily and if Hyundai were sensible and considered the private buyer would also happily have another i40 petrol, unfortunately they have dropped the petrol from the range. My only concern about going back to a hatchback is the awful roads we are expected to bounce around on, however having tasted large and comfy, I will be seriously looking at Mercedes, Audi and Volvo next time around. In my mind at the moment this should be the next stage to "bettering" my motoring journey, but even if I do end up with one of those manufacturers I will be grateful to Hyundai for having taken me down the route of discovery, we do still need to remember that the top of the i40 range comes in at a similar price point to the base Merc C Class and therefore should be more careful about managing our own expectations. Indalo makes many useful comments and posts across this forum, but I can't help feeling that he is really angry about his purchase and thinks that the appropriate outlet for that anger is to rage against those of us who are happy with our purchases, we didn't take him to the dealer and hold a gun to his head, it was a decision he made on his own and now finds that, for him, was wrong, to accuse the rest of us of having a made a wrong decision and being almost fanboyish about our purchases in the derisory manner he does smacks of complete arrogance or perhaps jealousy? No doubt this post will gain me another angry response about the size of my genitalia, to ward that off I will state now that my genitalia have proven themselves to be big enough to fill a pram.
  15. 3 points
    I have had my new i40 now for 9 days and nothing has gone wrong yet. The condensation in the headlights has gone. Sensors all work etc etc etc. What has struck me over the last 9 days is the difference in the drive, maybe I had the Friday car before but the car seems smoother with a little more power, even the wife commented on it. It is now a fight as to who gets to drive, I don't drive it as much as the tourer !!!!!!!!!!!!!! The only criticism I have is the gear change, it is markedly more notchy than the tourer with the clutch feeling very low. I have spoke to the dealer about this but have decided to give it a few thousand miles before I ask them to have a wee look at it. The car came with a full tank of diesel and the dealer asked me back yesterday to top it up with a complimentary £25. I haven't worked it out manually yet but the car is telling me 50mpg at the moment which is around 8mpg less than I was getting with the tourer but as I said haven't worked it out manually yet and it is early days. So far I don't regret the decision to stay with the i40 and Hyundai. Let's hope it stays that way. M...
  16. 3 points
    Thanks guys. I had a poke about under the bonnet and found the main beam is independantly adjustable to dip beam. There is an 8mm nut that turns a wheel sitting behind the main beam lens. I parked the car with the lights pointing at my garage door and set about them with an 8mm socket wrench. Problem sorted! IIRC turning the nut anticlockwise lowered the beam.
  17. 2 points
    Let the troll be a troll...
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    Dealer got back to me yesterday new gearbox to be fitted
  20. 2 points
    Heater core is probably clogged... if so, you will need to flush it!
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points
    Your opinion , I'm highlighting the issue and knocking their non Hyundai posts down the order . Unfortunately this forum is a spammers paradise as there is no moderators cleaning up this poo , no contact and nothing from reporting posts , absolutely shocking , some forums have up to five moderators dealing with issues within the hour . However I'll stop today , I've wasted a considerable amount of my time without back up , but guess what will happen... The site may as well be closed !
  23. 2 points
    Hi everyone, i have a hyundai 2011 i40 estate which i,ve had for a while, first Hyundai for me, always had Fords, mondeo's, had a problem with N/S rear caliper sticking on, wasn't the EBS motor, but the piston, had pads changed in April this year, pistion really hard to push back, but garage managed to fit new pads, week ago N/S was down to the metal again, back to garage, this time would not go back, so only fitted new pads on O/S using old O/S pads on N/S just to get me back on the road, garage told me needed new or recon caliper, priced these up, £150 + £100 surcharge refunded when they had my old one back, Hyundai wanted £313 inc vat for new ones, stupid money !!, i,m a very handy guy, so i ordered a new set of seals from Bigg red £23, if i messed them up just buy a recon one, this is what i did, DID NOT HAVE BRAKES WOUND BACK VIA PLUG/COMPUTER. brake off, wheel off, clamped brake pipe then removed, removed EPB plug, removed caliper, 2 x 14mm bolts, brought in house, removed motor, 2 x alien key bolts, used drill and tork bit to wind piston out fully, there is cog which motor sits on, then wound it back fully, removed piston, WATCH THE FLUID, unscrew the piston ram. then the sir clip from the cog at the rear of the piston, removed ram screw/cog, removed small seal for ram screw/cog, then piston seal, cleaned all parts, making sure seal groves are clean, replaced small O ring seal for ram screw/cog, replaced piston seal, replaced ram screw/cog, replaced sir clip, screwed down ram on threaded ram screw, lightly greased pistion seal with grease supplied, slid dust seal onto piston, pushed piston into caliper, dust seal is the tricky one to fit, bit of fiddling and it was in, when you replace motor, there is a rubber O ring that needs to be replaced before fitting, THATS IT !!, ALL DONE, replace caliper, replace brake pipe, replace plug, i fitted new pads, bleed fluid and thats it, no need to reset anything, parking brake works as it should, DON'T KNOW WHAT ALL THE FUSS IS ABOUT !!!!, done both calipers, working a treat !!!!, meant to take pictures of it all but forgot : ( shame, really simple to do, no need to be plugged in and wound back, cost me £100 all in, new disc's/pads/seals/fluid, sorted, if you need any help or have any question, please ask, thanks hope this helps !!!!!
  24. 2 points
    Hi all had i40 tourer for around a year its a 2012 premium blue drive version as usual its been to the dealers a few times and as i type its there again .i will look to post a new thread in relevent spot,overall nice car but spoilt with inherant design flaws .cheers all, great site .sam
  25. 2 points
    I've just broken 100k in mine, 62 plate premium ... No issues apart from parking sensors and camera. I'm looking at keeping mine for at least another two years when the warranty runs out and it will have done 170k ish. I'd check on the warranty position before you do anything. I believe cars used as taxis are only warrantied until 100k Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
  26. 2 points
    I'm similar to Daverey on this one, I've had mine 2.5 years put 115,000 on it and it's perfectly adequate! As a large car it's quite cheap and it has lots of features, plenty comfortable enough and good to drive. I'm looking at other cars now for possible replacement in the autumn and strangely the Seat Leon and Honda civic are smaller cars but have much bigger boots although less toys for a similar price. I would be quite happy to get another one. Yes most of us have had issues but with 5 years of warranty what's the problem? If you check other cars forums they too will be full of complaints and niggles, that's what forums do, unhappy people are the loudest. I have often thought this forum is quite slow and that in itself must say something. Hope this helps
  27. 2 points
    There you go Vinesy! This is a little used forum but inside 24 hours of posting, you have 7 replies to your request. As I hinted at previously, the replies demonstrate no common consensus and the answers from various correspondents do indeed reveal the model to be a 'mixed bag' in terms of how it's received by users. Re-reading your initial post, I'd exercise a little caution in any expectation you have that these cars regularly return 55 mpg. Those contributors to these pages who spend a great deal of time in fast-moving motorway or A-road traffic may well see that sort of number but many others never get anywhere near that kind of figure, even in the 'blue' versions. If a lot of your driving profile includes urban/suburban work, you will do well to reach the mid 40s. Anyway, it would be nice to know how you proceed with all this newly acquired 'insider knowledge' so perhaps, in due course, you could post again and appraise readers of your decision. Regards, Indalo
  28. 2 points
    I can make a list of problems on my 2014 (juli) i40 Comfort Go 1.7CRDI (116hk) Now owned it for 2 months 1. Automatic climate control way out of control (temp pendels 15 degrees up and down when in auto and 20 degrees setting in display) today they agreed to put a new "control unit for the climate system) have to wait 14 days for it. 2. Gearbox/clouch problem like most have on this model whit sticky 1 and 2nd gear clouch working near the floor. Acording to the dealer a fix is being tested by Hyundai, but come on, the problem has been their since the first car in 2011 ?. So iam thinking they are just staling time. 3. Light is poor 4. What are they called ? "roof list" "rellings" is "popping up, plastic to soft 5. Gas dampers in backdown (estate) to weak cannot lift the door. Mine is changed, problem stil the same. Again their is no new solutions to the problems, Hyundai just keeps on putting the same faulty mekanics in the new cars, no upgrades 6. Turn signal sound is to weak, u can't hear it, and the turn signal arm is not "cutting" off fast enough, keeping your turn signal on long after you have make a turn. 7. Seatbelt on backseat was turn inside out, they had to unmount the belt an turn it around 8. Motor is running really rough, especially when cold, it's normal acording to dealer. The km/L (mpg) on the diesel is far from promised in brochure I could go on, just have to say this is my first and my last i40, never again. Coming from 17years with different Skodas, the last a Superb Regards haug (Denmark)
  29. 2 points
    You may choose more than one, if you own more than one
  30. 2 points
    Hi DC 1) Remove key from fob 2) Using the flat tip of the key, place it firmly in the little gap between the two lugs about 3mm along from the rectangular hole into which the key fits. 3) Gently but firmly twist the key till you slightly prise apart the two halves of the case at the top. Then take a flat bladed screwdriver and very carefully open the gap around the more curved side of the fob until you have the two parts loosened but still in position. 4) Now, before you carefully remove one half from the other, the little key release button has a tiny spring behind it which will be lost if you are careless here so look out for that. 5) Once you have accomplished the separation, the battery compartment is self-evident but prise out the battery from the side without the little metal spring and don't lose that part. 6) The battery is one of the CR2032 type which are readily available in plenty of cheap shops. I'd advise paying a little extra for one with a name as some of the look-alike ones from China are really not very good. A card of assorted batteries from the 99p shop may seem like a bargain but I'd rather pay the price of a pint for a single CR2032 from any of the well-known brands as it's still a cheap item and will probably last 3 years easily. Re-assembly is, of course, a reversal of the strip-down and ends with a satisfying click when the case snaps together under gentle pressure. If you haven't already modified your key fob so the little release button sits flush with the surrounding case material, this would be a good opportunity to do it. I reckon the best way is to use a Dremel-type tool with a small cutting disc or alternatively, a grinding wheel to remove some of the length from the button. You can safely take it right down till it's flush and then the key and fob will no longer come apart accidentally. The tip of a pen or a pin will be required to press the button after that. Indalo
  31. 2 points
    Having been bothered on a couple of occasions recently by some creaking from the dashboard/windscreen area which several of you have complained of previously, I popped into Screwfix and picked up a can of WD40 silicone lubricant. On returning to the car, I opened it and sprayed just a tiny amount along the join between glass and dash board from the mid point of the screen towards the passenger end. Within minutes, I found myself on a poor road surface and.....NOT A PEEP! I really did use it very sparingly as I didn't want any out-of-sight electrical parts to suffer any liquid ingress and having cured the problem, I shall be interested to see how long that area stays silent but for the moment, I'm delighted to be free of creaks. I might try rubbing some into my lower back! Indalo
  32. 2 points
    Lots of owner already been through this one and once again due to the poor quality of raw materials such as front discs & dual mass clutch. Infect its beginning to look like anything which has a moving part manufactured from steelI digress...... Other members can be found on this thread.... http://www.talkhyundai.com/hyundaiforumuk/topic/590-loss-of-coolant/page-2?hl=leak Andy
  33. 2 points
    New Software Version 7.5.8 out www.navigation.com
  34. 2 points
    I have just registered to this site to share my views on the 'experience' I have had from my I40. Back in March 2012 I acquired my new company car, my choice, a 1.7d premium estate top of the range. And here we are nearly three years later and 85K miles taking the time and trouble to register my opinions, which are completely factual, and having no association with any car manufacturer or indeed dealerships. Furthermore this is the first time I have replied to any car manufacturers forum. Well I can honestly say that this car has been the worst company car I have ever had the misfortune to drive. The list of issues are as long as my arm, and to date the dealership (who to be fair have done their best) has spend nearly 9K on service replacements, and warranty work. It has become a standing joke not only at the dealership (where I am number two in the breakdown hit parade, believe it or not there is another I40 with even more work done on it), but also my company. I am counting the days I finally get shot of this piece of Korean rubbish at the end of February. So I received my brand spanking new car and on the way home noticed the steering wheel was not central. Went to the garage, tracked it and was just as bad. Decided to do my own tracking at a local specialist dealer, at my own expense, and it was still out. In the end the dealer took the steering wheel off, and moved it to a new position on the steering rack. Good start. Then the rattles, first the passenger seat rhs rail runner. Greased and oiled, no better. New seat ordered from Korea, 8 weeks later fitted (and it was leather (god knows how much that cost, I only wanted the rail replaced!!). Rattles in the sunroof, and top of the windscreen. New rear mirror (electric later) it was fixed, but has now come back. Next came the steering wheel, started to get tacky with all the surface coming off, told it was my aftershave!! 900GBP later it was replaced. Then came the reversing camera, and the blue screen of death, or white noise on the head unit. Replaced FIVE times, still doesn't work 100%. Then they decided to change the whole head unit with the sat nav, still didn't fix it. Still broke. Next came the front offside brake disc which was making a noise on turning, it was warped, I had only done about 32K. Never mind, next issue was travelling along the M1 when an almighty crash above my head, the front glass between the main screen and sunroof completely shattered. Known fault, through stress. Then came rattles in the passenger seat, no joy, and it gets worse dependent on the time of year. Still just as bad. Oh well it couldn't get any worse....next I was losing coolant. Taken to dealer, it was apparently a radiator cap, a known issue. Ran for the next 3 months until on a trip to Suffolk, the engine started to retard, and the temperature gauge read 100% then zero. Stopped and looked at the expansion tank, completely empty. Opened the radiator cap, empty. Back to the dealer, it was a thermostat gasket!!. Still losing water, back to the dealer, no fault found despite the tank being empty. Looking at the forums we all know the issue. And so it goes on, noise coming from front suspension, no fault found, water condensation in the headlight units, and the appalling paint quality. I have genuinely just given up. If it was my private purchase, I would of been demanding my money back a long long time ago.The sat nav is very poor, when I first enquired over the sat nav it didn't even have full post code entry. The sound system is truly awful, if you want five live on am ensure you turn the bass down unless you want to hear your door trim resonating. You pays your money and you take your chance. Never ever ever again. The five year warranty might sound tempting, and the car might look good (great job on styling), but beauty is only skin deep, and this car is seriously flawed. If you are prepared to wait the 6-8 weeks for service replacements then that's your choice. I have driven Fords, Vauxhalls, Volkswagen, BMW, Mazda and others, but nothing comes close to Hyundai. I only have myself to blame, and will be doing my homework on my next choice..... You have been warned. PS forgot to mention, the automatic headlamp switch on/off has a mind of its own, Sensor replaced (under warranty of course) and it makes no difference. Also the front sensors have a mind if its own, parked once in front of a tree, and it didn't go off. The other week it went off with a bus over 50m away!!! I dread to think what the warranty bill at Hyundai UK is, it must be absolutely colossal.
  35. 2 points
    Well 20 miles per day = petrol NO QUESTION Even if the 20 miles are driven from start to finish at 70MPH the DPF would still not complete a full regeneration cycle. Factor in also the extra purchase cost of the Diesel engine opposed to the petrol version and it would be very unlikely that you would own the car long enough to ever see a return let alone the extra cost of that engine paid for. With that kind of mileage do the maths and you will find the saving in fuel cost will be a single decimal pence on your typical journey. Unless you have circumstance changes on the horizon it would definitely be a petrol for me without even worrying about the DPF Andy
  36. 2 points
    The horns were delivered this morning just after 7.00 am,never known a courier to be that early before,any way all fitted ,My hat goes off to you if you did the complete job in 30mins,i found I had to modify the connectors so as to fit the horns,then put tape around them to make sure they were secure.nice to have a proper set of twin tones.
  37. 2 points
    Here is the GDS diagram, in case you are having trouble getting the bumper off. Thanks, no1spaceman. i40 bumper.pdf
  38. 2 points
    Check out the i40 forum Tony. Several contributors there have had major difficulties with dealers and Hyundai UK. Indalo
  39. 2 points
    Well, here goes, attempt to summarise first year and 20,000 miles. I am still very happy with the car, a 136 Premium with Assist pack. Warranty Claims; 1. Peeling steering wheel and gear knob- no quibble replacement 2. Lousy clutch - no quibble replacement 3. Lifting roof rails - no quibble replacement 4. Failing tyre pressure sensors - proactively identified by dealer BEFORE alarm went off Weaknesess: 1. Disappointing economy - remains at an overall average of about 43 mpg but since it's better than my last car (Accord Tourer) and tank is huge, I am satisfied 2. Main beam lights - poor but not intolerable 3. Sat Nav/entertainment system completely reset itself - Hyundai happy to replace entire unit if it repeats 4. Entertainment system second rate - seems a very odd economy to have made Strengths: 1. My dealer - best I have experienced (Pebley Beach, Swindon) 2. Great looking, well equipped car, very good value for money 3. Huge 4. Comfortable for very long runs 5. Servicing - inexpensive, convenient and professional 6. Sat Nav map update package I am quite unsettled to hear about the disastrous experiences of a few owners, but I am very happy with my purchase and would recommend the car. Despite the value to us of these forums, we must remind ourselves that the silent majority are (presumably) happy with their cars. If I can give any overall feedback to Hyundai, I think their supply chain quality control fell short of their aspirations for this car. Given they claim to make almost everything themselves (doubt this) then they have made some very unwise economies and/or rushed the car out as a completely new model. Shame, because in my view, with better QA and a more powerful, economic power unit this car would be an industry leader. It seems they also need to seriously investigate a few lousy dealers. Hope someone found this all interesting
  40. 2 points
    Hyundai has expanded its i40 model line-up following the addition of a new range-topping trim. Premium SE, which is now available on both i40 Tourer and Saloon, boasts an exceptional level of standard specification and also exceptional value for money too. Sitting above the existing Premium trim, Premium SE models will feature the items currently contained on the existing Comfort, Vision and Assist packs as standard. All three packs will no longer be available to order as optional extras. Standard equipment on Premium SE models now include heated steering wheel, ventilated front seats, heated rear seats (outer only), xenon headlights with adaptive front lighting system, lane departure warning system and tyre pressure monitoring. Hyundai’s Smart Park Assist is no longer available to order on the range, however, the i40 Tourer now gains an electric power tailgate. Prices for i40 Tourer Premium SE start at £27,465 OTR for the manual Blue Drive and standard models with the automatic version costing £28,670. For the Saloon, manual Blue Drive and standard models start at £26,065 rising to £27,270 for the automatic. Tony Whitehorn, Hyundai Motor UK President and CEO, said: “The i40 has, and continues to be, a tremendous product to have in our range and to date it has sold in excess of 7,000 units since launch. The addition of the Premium SE trim to the line-up means customers now get even more comfort, luxury, convenience and safety features as standard, most of which are on-cost options with other rival mainstream D-segment cars.” The Premium SE i40 will be available with the 1.7-litre CRDi 136PS engine (including the Blue Drive variant) along with a choice of either a manual or automatic gearbox. Further to the addition of Premium SE, changes to the i40 range include the addition of driver’s electric lumbar support on all Active models and improved high-beam strength of standard and xenon headlights on all models. Furthermore, Hyundai will no longer offer the 1.6-litre GDI petrol derivative. Click here to view the news
  41. 2 points
    Hi Mike The car will move back on a steep slope when the parking brake is applied, this is a Hyundai quirk which has been extensively discussed on i30 and ix20 forums also, apparently it is something to do with the position of the calipers on the discs, Hyundai fit theirs to sit at about 10 o clock, unlike others who have theirs at 9. When taking the car out of the garage I would be either switching on Autohold so that the parking brake automatically engages when you switch off the engine again or holding the car on the footbrake until I have applied the park brake manually, either will cause a move backwards as the pistons for the footbrake and parkbrake are in different positions. If you are putting your car back into the garage I will bet that you are not putting your seatbelt on, this confuses the Autohold/Parking brake system. If you have Autohold switched on and disconnect the seatbelt Autohold will switch off. This is why it is telling you to disengage the Parking brake manually also. Can you try putting the seatbelt on, which should then allow the normal pull away with the park brake automatically disengaging? Further to that, you don't have to put the belt on, try jumping in, starting the car and putting it into first, press the brake pedal and hold on the footpedal while disengaging the parking brake. It should move forward like in the old days when we couldn't be bothered applying the handbrake and held it on the brake/clutch.
  42. 2 points
    Well I've now had my i40 for a year, so for what it's worth here are some thoughts. It's a 1.7 CRDi 136ps Blue diesel saloon, and my previous car was a 1.8 diesel Mondeo. We've covered 11700 miles and we now get around 49 mpg over quite varied motoring. The mpg is very sensitive to speed. Did anything go wrong? On its second day the battery failed. It was replaced very quickly, and that's about it. Oh, apart from a (possibly perceived) problem with my wife's difficulty engaging reverse while on a hill facing down the slope. AA man said it was a glitch, and no fault found at the 1 year service. Niggles? Not many: I got used to the feel of the power steering very quickly. The key fob is a very bad design. Like others I've used duct tape! I'd like the radio to mute when reverse is engaged and I'd like the satnav to be upgraded to full postcode! I gave up reading the manual, too full of safety warnings. The ringtone when there's an incoming phone call is so faint it's hardly there. Must look that one up. Good things? It's a lot quieter and smoother than the Mondeo. The seats are brilliant. Interior fittings are way better than Ford. The Swindon garage are very good, no complaints at all. Good response from Hyundai First. Overall the car seems to do a lot of thinking for you, so as I degrade towards senility I do feel a bit safer than in the Mondeo! The tyres have done well, despite our occasional flirtations with kerbs. The paintwork looks very good (white). But you don't see many if them around here. Oh, and the £30 bill for road tax was pleasant!
  43. 2 points
    Wow, what can I say?? I did read the first post, the first person to mention Mercedes in this thread was you! I am perfectly happy with both my manhood and my i40, they are unrelated items, but if you wish to think that way then who am I to stop you? The points I was making about the i40 is that whilst some users have seen flaws, find me a manufacturer that doesn't, I overheard a conversation at my service centre when I was in picking my car up from its annual service where a chap with a brand new Citroen was being charged the best part of £1000 for non warranty repairs, I have friends with Fords, Vauxhalls, BMWs and Mercs who are never away from their respective dealers! I have owned Toyota, Austin Rover, VW, Nissan, Citroen (x2), Hyundai (x2), Subaru (x3) and more recently Hyundai i30, ix20 and now i40 in 26 years of driving of that is relevant to you. My fuel log is mostly based around town driving where the claimed figure from Hyundai for that engine is 34, if you check the dates on my log you will see that the entire log is over winter months and therefore the claimed figure will be difficult to achieve. I took the car to Durham last summer before I joined here and achieved almost 50mpg with only a couple of hundred miles on the clock and achieved 45 on the trip to Edinburgh and back which matches the published figures for my car pretty well, so yes in short I know that my car is capable of that, it is my choice of journey which prevents it more regularly! Paying less than cost price was not about insulting others, it is highlighting that in comparison to what I would have had to pay for other manufacturers comparable models I got a good deal, if that upsets you then I apologise! I was one of the people pushing Hyundai UK on their Facebook page to get the sat nav updated, but that does not detract from the fact that when I have needed to use it, it has worked well for me despite it's shortcomings, checking other manufacturers forums you will find many posts about inbuilt satnav gremlins and the extortionate costs associated with fixing them. I don't think anybody here is over the top with praise for the i40, your opinion is your entitlement as is everybody else's! I have never felt the need to share my experiences of my washing machine or coffee machine on the Internet, but I guess if we asked we could have an off topic section for such threads.
  44. 2 points
    Another Bumpkin fan.... we all know that the i40 isn't a Merc or an Audi. That said I know a guy who bought a brand new Merc 500 coupe which broke down FIVE TIMES ON THE SAME ROUNDABOUT in Swindon before he gave them the keys back! Some of the Audi A4's have appalling reliability issues .... it goes on and on. My other car is a ageing Land Rover Discovery (reportedly one of the least reliable cars on the planet) - I'll let you know my view on that reputation after the next 260,000 trouble free miles. We all know (and agree) that Hyundai have some (Ok, perhaps considerable) QA issues with the early i40's. Their dealers and the warranty is performing well (Mostly). My car is a damned good looking car, admired by my friends, it goes well and it's huge. I have fantastic value for my money, period. At this stage (after 9 months and 15.000 miles) I fully intend to get another one immediately before this warranty expires.
  45. 2 points
    It's all about the tyres.
  46. 2 points
    Hi mav82uk, it would be helpful if you could post the software version etc that this car is on. Cheers Paul
  47. 2 points
    you input the postcode in the town/city field and will work from there
  48. 2 points
    Bought an I40 Active two months ago. Love it.
  49. 2 points
    What was the outside temperature? Did you have climate control switched on? Did you have other electrics on such as lights, wipers, heated rear screen? A combination of any of these things will prevent ISG working as cold temp needs more fuel to start up and electrics put a large load on the battery if the car is not running. ISG works best in summer ( if we actually get one), it's really not best suited to UK winters!
  50. 2 points
    I have found that first gear can be a bit stiff, especially when the car is cold. So it looks like it may be a design fault if others are reporting the same thing.
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