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Showing most liked content since 03/24/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 likes
  2. 1 like
    Ooo yeah , in need some Tipex , you Sir are a scuffler and in need of some fetching driving slippers
  3. 1 like
    Car currently in having a new radiator under warranty. Thanks for the responses guys.
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    Surely it's a simple matter for a Hyundai dealer to re-programme your spare key? If that fixes it, it's probably worth a small charge. Having said that, it might be worth speaking to an auto electrician as I had a problem with the alarm system on my motorhome which I couldn't fix and the guy replaced the whole system with an up-to-date version of the same model for not a lot of money. Dedicated auto-electricians are pretty clued up on all these new-fangled things on cars that work by magic! Tom
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    "Due to the engine issue that increases the risk of a crash, according to safety regulators in those respective countries." "South Korea's transport ministry said on Friday metal debris in crankshafts could cause engine damage, leading to possible loss of motive power." This isn't a i40 problem and only a 2.0 and 2.4L petrol engine issue . They should be recalling the junk 1.7 crdi for the porous cylinder liners !
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    Well there's a number of company's online that you can send a sample of your oil to. that will tell you percentage of fuel if any is in your oil as well as other data.
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    Excellent !
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    Your mate's car probably has "adaptive" cruise control, which does indeed adjust your speed depending on the traffic around you. As far as I know on the i40 its just standard cruise control, which means all it does is hold you at the speed you select and you have to make the adjustments depending on the traffic.
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    I'd be guessing, I'm afraid Lewie. If it were me, I'd be disinclined from any diagnostic investigations other than disconnecting the battery and leaving it for half an hour before reconnection. In my experience, that sometimes resolves electronic glitches for reasons beyond my ken. You may remember SKY customer service 'techs' always advised removing the SKY box plug from the wall socket and leaving it unplugged for minimum 10 minutes when users experienced any kind of electronic hiccup with their system - it usually worked! As your snapshot of the instrument panel reveals a low-mileage car of the 2014-revised model, (I think), it should be under warranty. If I'm correct, let the dealership sort it. Indalo ps Sorry Lewie, I misread that odometer reading - I thought is was 11,000, not 118,000. I am overdue a trip to Specsavers!
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    If you continue to experience this problem, I'm afraid that, unless you are well-versed in automotive electronics and have access to a full suite of electronic test instruments, this kind of work is best left to a Hyundai dealer. If you are lucky and the car is within the warranty period, it could be covered. Best of luck! Indalo
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    Hi Lewie84, did the hold & autostop lights still come on when you next used the car, or has it sorted itself out? There are occasions where the system turns itself off by design; if you keep the brake pedal depressed for too long (eg, all the way down a long hill) it disables the system. This is the expected behaviour, but will reset when you next start the car.
  12. 1 like
    Hey guys I'm new to the forum. I bought a 62 plate ix35 just over a year ago from Arnold Clark. its just a 1.6 petrol so not much power but enough for what i need and i would of thought that it will be the same method on the different trim models. So the time has come that i needed to have a tow bar as my old work horse Pajero was no longer with us. I'm not towing heavy things anymore just a small trailer with the motor bike on ect. Anyway so the time has come and to order and fit one. i hunted online and couldn't find much about them and any guides or how too's. Its pretty straight forward and you only need a few basic tools to do the job. I called the dealer i got the car from just out of interest to see how much it would cost to have one fitted they quoted £450 for a fixed and £600+ for a detachable one. I was worried that the tow ball would effect the reversing sensors so i thought id need to go for a detachable one but at that price their was no way i was going to pay that. I risked it and went for a fixed one as i can turn the sensors off from inside the car turns out the fixed one doesn't effect the operation of then sensors at all. The job itself us super easy. Only thing i was nervous about was the wiring side like splicing into the wiring loom. So i started looking at vehicle specific wiring looms for the tow bar electrics. But at just under £200 that was also a no go. Now it would be a different story had i been needing a 13 pin trailer socket with the ability of trailer stability function but i don't. If you haven't done this before I would recommend allowing a day to carry out the work so that you are not stressed and rushing. I fitted the tow bar in a evening after work but had to stop as it got dark and then did the wiring the following day which took me 3 hours taking my time. So my reason for this post is to hopefully help people in the future do it them self's and not have to pay dealer prices. Theirs not much on the net about this so hopefully somebody finds this useful. First off id like to say you do this entirely at your own risk. Cause any damage to your car its not my fault I have listed what wires go to what plugs this is what it was on my car i guess their is a chance the same car could be different i doubt it but double check each wire it only takes 2 secs and eliminates the risk of frying your electrics or blowing a fuse. I bought a Witter tow bar off ebay for £130 + postage. It came with the the 7 pin plug and the cable to take it up into the car. I also had to buy a bypass relay for £16 that came with the wires to splice into the loom and all the scotch locks, fuse ect. So the tow bar arrived in a big box a few days later their is all the bits and bobs and some basic instructions. When fitting the tow bar leave all bolts loose until everything is fitted and then tighten and torque up!!! So to start they recommend you drop the exhaust back box off its hangers. You don't need to bother with doing this. the tow bar squeezes up just fine without it although their is 3 small Phillips head screws holding the bottom of the bumper in i removed them to allow flex of the plastic bumper for tightening the bolts. Their is 2 brackets that you bolt into the chassis legs with 4 bolts. The chassis legs are pre threaded so the bolts just go straight in. The mount on the left hand side went in no bother for me but the one on the right was a total pig. Because Hyundai pre thread them but don't cap them they just rust in the threads i had to use a tap and dye set to clean the threads up a little but you could use a sacrificial bolt to try clean them up. Now for this particular kit they bolt in with M10 x 30 x 1.25 , Lock washers and O.D flat washers and bolts torqued to 52Nm. Once the brackets are fitted you have to slot the bar up in between the brackets and bolt it up with the M12 x 35 x 1.75 with lock nut washers and 25mm O.D flat washers and then torqued to 80Nm Now their is the neck to fit to fit it is held in place with two packer plates and 2 M12 x 100 x 1.75 bolts and Nyloc nuts torqued to 80Nm. Now fit the plate and the tow ball to the neck with the M16 x 50 x 2.0 and lock washers and nut. and Torque to 200Nm. what i have written their is what the instructions recommended but i actually fitted the tow bar ball and neck to the tow bar before fitting the bar to the brackets. That's the easy bit done. Now this bit requires a little bit of thought and much easier with 2 people. Most of all the work is done on the left hand side of the boot. I had read that their is a grey plug that you can take all the feeds from but i couldn't see anything so i took it from the rear light cluster plugs. wrap the trailer plug cable round the tow bar once or twice and route it to the left hand side of the vehicle. Open the boot and remove the floor and spare wheel ect. their is a plastic trim where the boot catch is, to remove this their is 3 Phillips head screws that are on poppers you may need a trim leaver to lever them out or just pull them out, now pull that plastic trim off its on poppers so it will pop off, now on the left hand side their is two small Phillips screws at the bottom of the left hand trim panel remove them and pull out the trim. same again its on poppers but it will come free just pull it. you wont get the whole trim off because of the rear seat but fold it forward and you'll be able to pull it out far enough to get access. Their is 12v socket at trim light disconnect them to allow a little extra movement. Remove the rear left light with the two Phillips head screws that hold it in place and disconnect the plug and lay to one side. Push out the rubber gromit and pull the cable into the boot where you can work on it. Now comes the bit i wasn't looking forward to finding what wire does what. Just take your time. i'm about to list what wires did what on my car and the particular bypass relay i had so hopefully it will help you but i strongly suggest that you check each wire yourself before you get hacking away at wires. You need to push the black tow bar cable wire up the the gromit in the boot floor on the left hand side of the boot. Now strip back a little of the outer plastic protection to revel the different coloured wires. Put the correct wires into the correct plugs on the bypass relay plug 1 - Yellow 2 - Blue 3 - isn't plugged int the relay as it is a earth 4 - Green 5 - Brown 6 - Red 7 - Black Now that is the tow bar electrics connected to the bypass relay done. Easy right? Now you have to figure out when plug does what on the light cluster plug. Go switch on the hazard light and plug your volt meter or test light into the end of the plug to work out what cable does what. once you have found what cable does does the hazards/indicator just a case of matching them with the bypass relay and connecting them with the either the scotch locks or soldering them. On the left hand side of the car - Bypass relay - Car wirirng loom wire Yellow - White Red - Green & Black Black - Green On the right hand side of the car - Bypass relay - Car wirirng loom wire Green - Pink Brown - Black & Brown You will need to take take the right hand boot trim off and the light cluster out they are taken out exactly the same as the left hand side. Work out what cable does the indicator and what does their tail light and splice into the wires and run them across the boot neatly to the other side and connect into the bypass relay. The bypass relay needs a power supply as its a type of switch so connect the two earth cables that come out of the trailer electrics cable and the bypass relay to a length of wire and earth it onto the car somewhere suitable. i used one of the bolts that hold the top half of the trim on on the left hand side. splice into the positive cable to the 12v socket in your boot on the left hand side on my car its the blue wire and then connect into the positive feed into the bypass relay and your DONE! well close enough. Its just a case of using a bit of double sided tape like number pad fixing tape to fix that relay to the side of the car. Tidy up any wires and put everything back together in the reverse order of how you took it all apart. Then once all that's done plug in your trailer or trailer board or volt meter and try it out see if its all working. You will probably find that once their is a trailer connected or light bar that the relay has a beeping tone when indicating this is just to let you know their working. once disconnected it wont make any noise. When you are splicing into the cars loom splice into a bit of cable that sits inside the car where it is dry and away from the elements it helps to reduce the risk of any connections failing. Now you are finally done and get Towing! I hope that this is of use to somebody. I know it would have been very useful to me as i would have been able to relax a lot more when doing it.
  13. 1 like
    Lucky you've still got warranty. I can see alot of these Kia and Hyundai 1.7 crdi engines financially writing off the vehicle out of warranty . What poo poo they are....